Native Grapes of Italy

[Stefano Novello of Ronco Severo with his son, the next generation of winemakers.]

We all love Italian wine. Grapes like Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Pinot Grigio and Vermentino are very familiar, but many of the lesser-known indigenous grapes of Italy will soon be sharing the spotlight.

According to Ian D’Agata’s comprehensive Native Wine Grapes of Italy, the country cultivates roughly 2,000 native grape varieties. Although just under 400 are used to make wine in commercially significant volume, that number totals more native grape varieties than France, Spain and Greece combined.

After a period of time appealing to the mass market and the critics with Merlot and Chardonnay, many Italian vintners are returning to their roots and focusing on native grapes once again. Because of their long association with a specific area, these varieties are actually better able to cope with local microclimates and express terroir. And in a country that only became a nation in 1861, they are considered part of the regional cultural identity.

-Christine Manula