Mas Coutelou: Puimisson Possible!
Last month Eben and I visted Puimisson, a charming village in the Languedoc north of Béziers, to taste with vigneron Jean-Francois "Jeff" Coutelou. As fans of natural wines, this visit was especially meaningful because Mas Coutelou is one of the first wineries to be certified organic in the Languedoc (1987), not to mention that the wines are delicious. On the big day, it was raining heavily so we pulled over in a small back road to get our bearings. There are no signs or markings to indicate where Jeff's cellar is, but the surreal rainbow stretched across his street where we happened to be parked seemed sign enough.
The estate has been in the family for four generations. Prior to 1987 the winery had 20ha (~50 acres) of conventionally farmed vines and the wines, according to Jeff, were rigid, heavily extracted, and forced. Beginning that year they decided to work without chemicals and to treat their vines with organic remedies only when necessary.
"Nervousness? Acid reflux? Headaches?
Next time try a little wine from Jeff Coutelou!"
Today the estate is 13ha (~32 acres) comprised of separate parcels of traditional Languedoc varieties and some long forgotten selection massale cépages on clay and limestone. In places where vines were too compromised by conventional farming, there are now a bevy of olive trees, shurbs, and protective hedges. All of the work is done manually, with careful attention to biodiversity and reducing impact on local eco-systems. The cellar work is equally thoughtful. His vinification methods and vessels vary depending on variety and vintage in order to promote the purest expression of each; but he always uses indigenous yeasts and never adds sulphur (even for his sweet wines).
"You can tell a real winemaker by his hands," Jeff told us with a raspy laugh. His large hands were stained with dirt as he filled our glasses with samples of the powerfully aromatic 2017s. While there's never a question about whether he is a 'real' winemaker, his 2017 Mourvèdre will erase any doubts. He says it's the most textbook Mourvèdre he's ever made and his favorite vintage yet. We enthusiastically agree.
We're pleased to report that all of the 2017s are showing beautifully. The reds are not to be missed, as usual, and for something different, we have a white from Coutelou for the first time! The 2016 Le Blanc is a summery blend of Macabeu, Grenache Gris, Clairette, and Muscat à Petits Grain from parcels near the seaside; it's distinctively perfumed, refreshing and yes - clean. These are some of the most interesting natural wines coming from the Languedoc and we're thrilled to share them with you. Amanda Bowman
