Main Corse: Organic Wines from Patrimonio!
11/8/18 -
In many ways the Corsican wine region has been long misunderstood. To outsiders, it may seem that the French island has an identity crisis -- not quite French, not quite Italian -- but Corsicans have always had a strong sense of who they are. And as we get to meet more of the winemakers and discover more of the wines from that region, we're finally getting a better sense of their profound individuality and all of the wonderful ways the wines enhance our shelves and dinner tables.
Today we are delighted to offer a selection of certified organic and biodynamically farmed wines from Corsica's northern appellation of Patrimonio. Each of the red and rosé wines in this offer are made from Niellucciu, which is genetically identical to Sangiovese according to Jancis Robinson's Book of Grapes. We also have two examples of age-worthy Vermentinu that showcase the variety's potential for complexity; a style that may be overshadowed by the crisp and simple versions consumed locally at seaside cafés. Growers Thomas Santamaria, siblings Julie and Mathieu Marfisi, and Nicolas Mariotti Bindi represent a sample of the next generation of small, family-run wineries of the 30 or so currently operating in Patrimonio (according to their importer's website). Each of these estates have held up the old traditions of working the vines without herbicides or pesticides, despite the prevalence of industrial farming, and strive to make honest, classic wines representative of their local terroir.
Thomas Santamaria is the 6th generation winemaker at Domaine Santamaria. He and his father (who is still involved in the winery) have a total of 30 hectares throughout three communes where the soils are composed of limestone and schist. Thomas is passionate about continuing organic treatments in the vineyards, and has begun to explore biodynamic methods as well. They make two tiers of wines: the first is their modestly-priced, early-drinking red and white bottled under their "Tranoi" Vin de Pays label (more coming soon- stay tuned!), and the second is their cornerstone Patrimonio label. The Patrimonio Blanc spends two hours on its skins and is wonderfully supple and structured with savory, mineral acidity. A delicious wine to hold for 5-10 years or drink this winter with goat cheeses, charcuterie, or roasted poultry. All wines are fermented with native yeasts and bottled with minimal sulfur.
Julie and Mathieu Marfisi are the 5th generation to work the collective 15 hectares of Niellucciu, Vermentinu, and Muscat Blanc à Petite Grains at Clos Marfisi. Their importer reports that the southern and western exposed vines are planted on steep slopes overlooking the Mediterreanean in blocky, limestone-rich soils. The estate has farmed organically for a few generations and were certified for the 2018 vintage. In the cellar they work with native yeasts, minimal sulfur (and no sulfur for their "Gritole" cuvée), and vinify mostly in stainless steel. We've enjoyed these wines for the last two vintages and so far have found them to be incredibly reflective of their vintage. The 2016 "Gritole," for example, shows the much riper and darker-fruited characteristic of the hot vintage, while the 2015 was a bit more juicy and nervy. The exquisite mineral structure from the start to the long finish remains a backbone through each cuvée regardless of vintage.
Nicolas Mariotti Bindi just recently debuted in the states with his distinctive wines made from old vines of Niellucciu and selection massale Vermentinu, plus his juicy, fruit-driven rouge from his introductory "Cantina di Torra" label. As an intern for Antoine Arena then later as the head winemaker at Domaine Leccia, Bindi honed his skills as a vigneron and went on to acquire 15 hectares of his own certified organic vines in Patrimonio. Each of his parcels is vinified separately in order to showcase each site; the grapes are hand harvested and allowed to ferment spontaneously. He also indicates the amount of sulfur (low doses) he adds on each label. These wines make for an interesting comparison with Clos Marfisi as they tend to display more supple fruit and broadness on the palate as opposed to firm mineral acidity. We look forward to seeing more wines from this producer! Amanda Bowman
