La Ferme Saint-Martin: Superb "Vins au Naturel" from the Southern Rhone!
8/26/19 -
For many years now we've been working with the great father and son team of Guy and Thomas Jullien at La Ferme Saint-Martin in Beaumes-de-Venise, one of the first estates in the southern Rhône to practice organic farming and low-sulfur vinificatons. The high-altitude vineyards produce complex, powerful reds that retain freshness and balance, as well as full-bodied whites and a fresh and lovely rosé. The estate was created in the 1960's when Guy's father Aimé transformed the farm that produced grapes, olives, apricots and cherries, into a real vineyard with 11 hectares of vines. Guy took over in 1979 and began using organic methods in the late 1980s. During this period he would travel to Paris to show his wines and would taste with other growers and with Francois Morel at "Les Envierges" (author of the wonderful book "Le Vin au Naturel") and Philippe Pinoteau at "Le Baratin." It was then that Guy acquired a desire to produce natural wines. Guy's very capable and enthusiastic son Thomas is now in charge and the estate continues to produce some of the most naturally delicious wines of the Southern Rhône - and they are superb values as well. The farming here is particularly outstanding with careful plowing along the vines and a carpet of green maintained between the rows - "regenerative agriculture" that sequesters CO2 and preserves living soils.
From their website: "The vineyards are exposed due south on dry and stony limestone terroir, in terraces from 600 to 1800 feet in altitude. We have cultivated the vines in certified organic agriculture since 1998. Each parcel is harvested by hand and we select with care (with a sorting table) the grapes that enter the cellar. The vinifications are done without the addition of any oenological products. (A minimal dosage of SO2 is added to most wines before bottling) Our family, united in the same passion, works with conviction and determination to bring you living wines, free to express their personalities, true reflections of their terroir." The Beaumes-de-Venise reds offered today, especially Costancia and Cuvée Saint-Martin, are big, well-structured wines that will need carafing or opening well in advance if drinking soon - they are outstanding wines that are worth the effort or time in the cellar. The Côtes-du-Rhône "Les Romanins" and the Ventoux "La Gérine" are superb everyday reds to serve a bit cool. Thomas Jullien is creating unique and delicious whites - the new 2016 CDR " L'Austral" is made from Roussanne and Grenache Blanc that undergo a one-week maceration on the skins - it avoids the excess tannins of some skin-contact whites and offers very complex, full-bodied fruit balanced by a structured, mineral palate. And Thomas' rosé is simply delicious! We urge you to try these truly unique though inexpensive wines...
