Great St Josephs from Jean and Pierre Gonon!

5/29/2008 -

The Gonon cellar

Jean and Pierre Gonon work 5.5 acres of Syrah, at Tournon, Mauves and old vines from Trollat at St Jean de Muzols. The white, 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, is on the Coteaux des Oliviers and was planted in 1958 and 1974. They pick as late as possible and ferment with wild yeasts. Pigeage is mostly by foot. Aging is 13 to 15 months in 600 litre casks and one old foudre; no new oak.

'These wines reflect the best virtues of artful and natural family winemaking' - Livingston Learmonth

Here are Jean and Pierre Gonon's notes on the vintage in his own words from an e-mail the other day: One could describe the 2006 vintage as "classic" for the appellation Saint Joseph. The white wines are fat and rich but a little fresher than the 2005's which now seem a bit too soft. This freshness is not due to acidity, which is always fairly low in our white wines, but rather to the aromas of menthol and the anis flavors in the finish. The red wines are, it is true, less concentrated than the 2005's which now are appearing closed. 2006 has more immediate fruit and more charm, only the finish is a bit austere with firm tannins, which is somewhat a sign of our vinification with a high percentage of grapes not de-stemmed. I think that, if one takes care to carafe them, these will be wines one can drink for their youthful fruit until next winter - one should then wait 3 to 4 years to enjoy their mature aromas.

Pierre and Jean Gonon have to be one of the most under the radar wine producers in France. Their St. Joseph's are so good you cannot believe they are this inexpensive even with the crappy dollar. I just took home the 2006 the other night and was floored by it. Upon opening, the nose was just screaming with olives, blood, game, leather, spice, loam and mineral. A nose that utterly reeks of stanky Syrah. Every old school Syrah lovers dream. The palate has wonderfully rich fruit, that is exceptionally pure and coupled with juicy acidity. There is an earthy sweetness to the fruit and an animal character that kicks in on the back end. The finish lingers and shows great complexity already at this young age but this will improve over the next ten years. Tremendous wine. There is a granular-like texture and suave, sleek tannins. This is Syrah that is a killer value and actually, scrap that, . . .just a killer wine. This is the third vintage we have been working with and each one has been beautiful.