Great 2011 Burgundies from Stephane Magnien!
7/22/13 -
In May we returned to Domaine Stéphane Magnien in Morey Saint-Denis to taste the 2011s from this talented young winemaker. We were very happy to find a superb range of wines that retained the bright acidity and mineral character of the 2010s while showing lovely, complex aromas and a bit more depth and roundness on the palate. This estate, while relatively unknown and publicity-shy, is crafting elegant, balanced wines in an old-fashioned style that are a joy to drink. The domaine has never used herbicides, doing a deep plowing to aerate the soil each winter (they changed from horse to tractor in the 1980s) and uses only organic composts. There is a high percentage of old vines, including a great deal of "Pinot Tordu," a small-berried, aromatic old clone of Pinot. Minimal new oak is used, about 15% for the premier and grand cru wines, and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Hand-harvesting, of course, and long, wild-yeast fermentations.
"Far from being 'fashionable' wines, you will find in our bottles subtle, structured wines respectful of terroir and vintage, with length on the palate ...all in finesse," says the Magniens website. Of course the excellent farming is a key here, with deep roots in living soils, as well as vinifications that minimize extraction. There is concentration, from the old vines and low yields, but with light color, bright acidity and great balance. Stéphane Magnien is a modest, bright young man who seems proud to produce elegant, light-bodied, old fashioned wines - we hope you will give them a try... -DL