10/20/25 - 

Having spent two years of my career slinging bottles at a French/Austrian restaurant I can confidently say that people love Grüner Veltliner, but at the same time many haven't experienced the grape's range or potential! I think in the wine world it can often be overlooked by its flashy friend Riesling, but from the everyday drinker to the age worthy single-vineyard sites, Grüner Veltliner is a wine that is worth seeking out and enjoying. Today we are focusing on just Grüner and those specifically from Austria, where it is the country's most planted grape varietal making up approximately 1/3 of total vineyard area. The wines can range from crisp and fresh to concentrated and powerful but across that entire span are peppery, herbaceous, and citrus driven wines with a bit of salty minerality. From Schnitzel to seafood and vegetables, allow this fun loving grape to carry you through an entire meal. Today I've chosen just a few of my favorite Grüners, being sure to show off everything from everyday classics to those worthy of a slot in your cellar. 

-Hanna Krilov

Click below to view the wines on offer today or continue reading to learn more about these incredible producers and their wines.

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Peter Veyder-Malberg in the cellar (Photo: veyder.malberg.at)

Coming from the Spitzer Graben in the Wachau is Peter Veyder-Malberg. He created his own winery in 2008 and has been making some of the most pure, focused, and chisled wines since. His vines are located in some of the coldest wine growing areas of Austria yet he continues to have some of the most meticulous organic and biodynamic farming. His goal is to showcase the cultural landscape, and terroir of the Wachau. Grapes are hand harvested once they reach physiological ripeness, and not based off of sugar levels. Liebedich can be seen as his entry level Grüner but there really isn't anything entry level about it. What was initially created for any site Peter didn't have enough quantity to bottle on its own is now what he describes as a representation of "an authentic Wachau." Planted in 1987-1992 Ried Hochrain is a single single vineyard on terraced slopes in Wösendorf on deep loess soils. Harvested over numerous pickings, the grapes are macerated then pressed over 6-8 hours and left to settled in tank for a day. They are fermented with native yeasts and then aged for 6 months in 1500L Stockinger barrels. They undergo malolactic and are fined but not filtered. There is a strong golden apple and pear aroma with peppery spices and an herbaceous finish. These are great young but even more delicious with some bottle age. 

Barbara  Öhlzelt in front of her winery (Photo: Vom Boden)

Barbara Öhlzelt farms just about 7 hectares of vines in the Kamptal and makes some of the most refreshing and linear expressions of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. While some of her neighbors in the region create wines of power and structure, Barbara's wines lean towards those of depth and focus with a softer touch and bright acidity. Her village-level wines are from younger vines around her hometown of Zöbing, making the wines "Zöbinger." Her current release of Grüner Veltliner Zöbinger is zippy and fun! Full of bright citrus fruits, pepper, and herbs, this has a salty and refreshing finish that will go wonderfully alongside an array of foods.  

Bernhard Ott (Photo: ott.at)

The Ott family has been growing grapes and making wine in Wagram since 1889! Bernhard represents the fourth generation and has been at the helm for over thirty years now. Forever working to create wines of elegance with age-ability, Bernhard has spent time experimenting between old wooden casks, steel and stockinger barrels. Depending on the cuvee, a wine might see one of these or a combination. In 2007 he committed to biodynamic viticulture and has never turned back. Year after year he creates wines of focus, purity, and power. Today we have his Am Berg, a shop favorite and staple on the shelfs, made from grapes that are sourced from younger estate vines and purchased from growers in Feuersbrunn. Natural fermentation in stainless steel, before being  left on the fine lees until bottling in early Spring. A delightfully zesty rendition, full of lip smacking minerality. A step up from there is his Ried Stein a vineyard with loess and gneiss soils. There is a long maceration prior to natural fermentation in steel. Left on the lees until it is bottled in the late summer. Beautiful notes of sage, and lemon with a stoniness. It has pristine fruit and minerality that is mouthwatering with a medium body. True Grüner elegance. 

Thomas Klinger, Andreas Wickhoff, with Willi and Edwige Brundlmayer (Photo: bruendlmayer.at)

From the heart of the Kamptal comes Weingut Brundlmayer. The rocky, terraced vineyards provide a special microclimate in many of their renowned vineyards. Today the wines are made by Willi Brundlmayer along with his wife Edwige, Thomas Klinger, and Andreas Wickhoff Master of Wine.  The team manages their vast vineyards that have been certified organic since 2019 and continues to experiment with ways to create the best grapes possible. Willi has converted 17 hectares of vines to the Lyre training system that helps the vines to benefit from the warmth of the ground and increases sunlight. Highlighted today is their Terrassen, a wine that is all  about the Kamptal. Fermented and aged in stainless steel this is a bright and focused Grüner. The nose is full of aromatics, pear, lime, spice and lots of pepper. Its savory, energetic and refreshing. We also have their Ried Lamm, the greatest site for Grüner in the Kamptal!  The vineyard is on clay and limestone soils, and the grapes are fermented and aged in a mix of different sized Austrian oak barrels. This is a rich, powerful Grüner Veltliner. There is a strong note of pepper with ripened apple, and herbs. It has precise minerality and a long finish. This will continue to age beautifully for years to come!

Johannes and Sandra Hirsch (Photo: Skurnik)

Johannes Hirsch's family has been in the Kamptal since 1878 and he represents the fifth generation. His father Josef took over what was just a 2.5 hectare domaine and began to acquire more vineyards, often buying parcels that no one else wanted to own. From the 70's he was farming everything biodynamically, well ahead of many of his neighbors. Today the family owns 31 hectares and continues to be a strong force and example for impeccable farming. In addition to their amazing work in the vineyards, the Hirsch family encourages their wines to spend time in the bottle, and since 2002 has used exclusively screwcap. Having been lucky enough to enjoy some of their wines with 10+ years of age, you wouldn't tell the difference from cork. Their Ried Lamm undergoes whole bunch pressing, spontaneous fermentation in a combination of old, large barrels and stainless steel. The wine rests on the lees until mid-May 2024 with an additional two months in steel prior to bottling. The resulting wine is incredibly savory, herbaceous, and mineral. There is so much depth of flavor here! The wine is medium bodied and has an incredibly long finish.  

Christina (Photo: Jenny & Francois Selections)

The Netzl family has farmed the same village since 1650 and when Christina returned home to Carnuntum in 2007 she was concerned with soil conditions and nature in her vineyards. So, by 2013 she and her husband began transitioning to organic farming. After years of experimenting with low-intervention methods in the cellar, Christina began her own range of wines alongside the more classical ones she ‘inherited’ from her father. Her Grüner Veltliner vines are on red gravel and loess soils that are come of the cooler areas of the region. Grapes are hand-harvested and pressed as whole bunches. The juice is fermented spontaneously in stainless steel in a long, slow ferment thanks to the cold cellar temperatures. Bottled unfined and unfiltered, with a small addition of sulfur. The nose is bright with green apple and savory peppery notes. It's a clean, fresh, tasty Grüner!

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