An Evening in the Beaujolais - The Superb Desvignes "Aux Pierres" and the Beautiful 2022 Texier/Vignenvie "Calico!"
12/12/23 -
We finally got around to tasting the 2022 Desvignes Morgon Javernieres "Aux Pierres" which we offered a few weeks ago, based on tasting the 2021, and on the opinions of a few asture wine writers. Our assumption was correct, the wine is fabulous!
"Aux Pierres" comes from a 0.57-hectare plot of 90-year-old vines on a steep, east-facing slope, with historic top quality massale selections. The soils are iron-rich, red clay with schist, pyrite and decomposed volcanic rocks. The farming is in conversion to organics, soon to be certified like the rest of the Desvignes estate. Half of the bunches are left whole with half destemmed and put together into closed concrete vats for a partly carbonic fermentation; maceration is 13-14 days with a submerged cap and no punchdowns. Minimal SO2 is used. The wine is aged in 30-hectoliter concrete egg for 10 months. The Desvignes family considers "Aux Pierres" to be a true vin de garde.
"Deep, dark red/black color with light rim. Aromas of black cherry/boysenberry liqueur, deep and meaty with violette, earth and dark chocolate.The palate is dense and supple and beautifully ripe with black fruit liqueur backed by firm, fresh acidity and mineral flavors. The finish is long and sapid with red fruits and violets, seamless, sapid and with very elegant silky tannins. The aging potential here is obvious, but the wine is delicious now in it's exuberant youth. Best in 5 to 15 years. A recommended tasting in 2032: 2022 "Aux Pierres" and 2022 Ducroux "Expectatia.!"
And of course the other 2022 Desvignes wines are delicious as well - the Beaujolais-Villages "Aube a Javernieres" is perfect for durrent drinking...
Another kind of Beaujolais....
2022 Texier "Vignenvie" Calico: Muscat d’Alexandrie, Muscat Petit Grain, Muscat Ottonnel, Chasselas Blanc, Chasselas Gris and Pinot Gris blend from the Beaujolais. The Vignenvie project is quite unique: many inhabitants of the small village of Charnay work this land together as a community. The vine, a key element of the beauty of the landscape, is threatened with the general crisis in the wine-growing world which is gradually leading landowners to resort to uprooting it. Vignenvie acts to defend this heritage and preserve the uniqueness of the setting of life. It is an experimental initiative which aims to maintain and preserve vines in the heart of the village, grown for the purpose of quality production. Vignenvie works in organic farming and according to the principles of biodynamics which use ancient farming methods adapted to today's knowledge. The work is heavily inspired by the agricultural philosophy of Masanobu Fukuoka. Eric Texier then vinifies the wines and redistributes it to the workers.
The 2022 just arrived at the store and was an instant party! The nose offers a lovely combination of floral and stone fruit notes, suggesting the aromatic varieties with lychee and white flowers, but also subtle tangerine and citrus fruits. On the palate, the acidity is lively but balanced and not too sharp, with white apricot and fresh stones. The finish brings everything together and adds fresh-cut herbs and orchard fruit notes. A jovial and thirst-quenching wine with life-affirming energy! Seems like Eric hasn't given up on making no sulfur wines, at least he's really good at it! 30 minutes open and it's just getting better! Be a part of Vignenvie by enjoying this beautiful wine!
Wines arrive Thursday 12/14. 10% case/mixed case discount applies.
