A Tasting of Ar.Pe.Pe.!

1/19/13 -

(The fifth generation of Pelizzatti Peregos...)

Ask virtually any wine professional and they’ll tell you that, though they seem glamorous to the casual observer, industry trade shows really aren’t a lot of fun. Often there’s an overwhelming amount of wine to try in a short period of time as well as light schmoozing, interspersed with non-verbal communication over a spittoon that is always too far away, all during the course of what would have been your lunch break if you hadn’t had to go to a trade show. “First world problems!” You may be exclaiming to yourself but, truly, we sacrifice to find the best and most interesting bottles to put on the shelf at Chambers Street Wines.

There are, however, glorious redeeming moments at industry trade events. Every once in awhile there’s a lineup of wines at a trade show that is so absolutely stunning that it makes all the cheese cinder blocks instead of lunch and the small talk with that portfolio manager/former sales rep/buyer for your competition you see twice a year worthwhile. I had this experience tasting Ar.Pe.Pe. several months ago. Asked to attend in place of our Italian wine buyer who was indisposed, I tasted almost exclusively Italian wine… and I was so glad I did!

Ar.Pe.Pe. (short for Arturo Pelizzatti Perego) is a historic and well-regarded estate in the Valtellina, a mountainous region of northwestern Italy that borders Switzerland, “where the Nebbiolo grape attains the finesse and precision of Pinot Noir,” according to Ar.Pe.Pe.’s importer. “Ah!” I thought when I read this statement: “these are Italian wines for people who like French wines!” I began to understand why I was so attracted to them… but what a gross oversimplification that does not do justice to the very fine wines of Ar.Pe.Pe., which have the evanescent, delicately floral aromatic qualities and structure of Nebbiolo, but from a cool and mountainous terroir.  

Ar.Pe.Pe. specializes in two terroirs within the Valtellina: Sassella and Grumello. Grumello, with more slate and limestone in the soil, gives wines with more finesse and minerality, while Sassella, with red rocks and clay, makes a more powerful wine. The winemaking at Ar. Pe.Pe. is traditional; macerations take place over 15-30 days, encouraging slow, gentle extraction. As we know from our favorite Baroli, this treatment works well for Nebbiolo! The wines are then aged for a number of years in large, old oak followed by a number of years in bottle before release. The exception, the Rosso di Valtellina, is a light-bodied, high-toned, and savory Nebbiolo that drinks well young. It’s a lengthy process, élèvage at Ar.Pe.Pe.; nothing is rushed  and patience ensures a beautiful expression of grape and terroir.

Of course a fascinating way to taste these wines, as I discovered at the aforementioned trade tasting, is side by side, when you can smell and taste the differences between the various terroirs, vintages, and bottlings. We are fortunate to be able to bring you this opportunity at a very special tasting this Saturday, from 4-7pm, with Isabella Pelizzatti Perego, fifth generation winemaker at Ar.Pe.Pe. Please join us for an afternoon of fabulous mountain Nebbiolo. Salut! -Sophie