A One Wine Email: Später-Veit 2005 Riesling Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Domherr Auslese
Last week I got a text from our friend Eva at Bonhomie Wine Imports about a bottle of finely aged Riesling that she had in her bag. We don't typically do impromptu tastings at the shop, but my curiosity got the best of me, plus it was just one wine! About an hour later we had a little taste of the Später-Veit 2005 Riesling Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Domherr Auslese (say that 5 times fast!). Obviously we liked it if we're sending out this email. My first thought was more wonderment at how absolutely fresh it was. The firm acidity was very much in place, and I don't think I would have guessed it was nearly 20 years old if I tasted it blind. Alas, good Riesling should do that. Obviously sweet, though not cloying, enticing on the nose, open and delicate on the palate. I quickly asked if there was a chance we could hold some for the shop and offer to all of you (our readers and faithful customers), as it's rare to get wines like this at a price like this ($59.99) with age like this, directly from the estate! Here's a bit of info from the estate and more detailed notes from our friends at Bonhomie Wine Imports below. -Eben Lillie
2005 Riesling Piesporter Goldtrofpchen Domherr Auslese: 122 g/l Sugar + 8,4 g/l Acidity - From Alte Reben in the Domherr plot (upper/lower parts of this plot. Upper were planted pre-war so all records were lost, locally known to be planted over 100yrs ago). Planted to blue-grey slate and clay. Hand-harvested, fermented with natural yeasts.
From Niklas Welter at Weingut Später-Veit: "The quantity of grapes for the 2005 Domherr Auslese was not enough to fill a Mosel barrel because botrytized grapes do not yield the same quantity as intact grapes. A smaller barrel was therefore used. We always bottle sweet wines before the summer. This is why the Auslese has only been stored on the lees for 7 months. We have produced 400 bottles of this wine."
Niklas Welter grew up with a front and center view of the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen. He began helping his father, Heinz, in the cellar in 2009. When his father retired to ‘tractor only vineyard work’ in 2014, Niklas took over running the show.. which mostly means, does all the work. He’s capable and gaining confidence. The wines are a result of the patchwork of soils and a passion for Riesling as it ages. Their Organic work over 9.5ha of mixed terroir: Red, blue, Grey slates and Quartzite on incredibly steep slopes. Native ferments illuminate the showcase.
Eva's tasting notes: "Intense & Multi-faceted. First whiff say’s ‘bring the Foie Gras’ - opens to become more floral / herbal - still showing classic house style of natural ferment - honey, stone fruit nectar, dried apricot - LAYERS!
Saline / mineral / bay leaf / toasted almond / toasted coconut - slate/talc mineral texture - intense late harvest approach but presents quite open on the palate with softness AND structure. A phenomenal experience but much left to develop - herbs fire up into the finish. SO honeyed while supported by bright juicy acidity." (Thanks Eva, we couldn't have said it better ourselves!)
