Fricke, Eva 2021 Rheingau Kiedrich Riesling Trocken

A blend from several organically farmed parcels around Kiedrich comprised of varying soils including sand, loam, loess, quartzite, and slate. Fermented with native yeasts in tank with 8 months on the fine lees (per importer).  Bottled as a Trocken QbA in 2022. The Elektrik Kool-Aid quartzite test. I often wonder how some wines can manage such complexity and electricity in just a simple swirl of the glass and  sip. And yet here we are; the 2022 Kiedrich from Eva Fricke offers seemingly kaleidoscopic detail and a crackling energy all its own. The wine is a pale green-tinged yellow. The nose is zesty and a bit wild, with aromas of sea spray, lemon and lime peel, bracken and green apple skin. The palate is ripe, but chiseled and sinewy, more electric circuit than mere steel, and while is seems to be nearly careening across the palate, the kaleidoscopic bus continues to pick up passengers. Dark, stone, salt lick, cut glass, limoncello, 9-volt battery and spearmint flavors all freak freely and it works. The finish dances exuberantly across the palate and with abandon, yet this energy seems elemental and ecstatic at the same time. There’s a lot of joy here. Turn on, Trocken, drop out! -John McIlwain