Akutain 2017 Rioja Reserva

Jon Peñagarikano Akutain, the second-generation owner of Bodegas Akutain, is making some of our favorite, classicly styled Riojas. Everything at the esate is traditional: hand-harvesting from six hectares of estate vineyards, fermentation with natural yeasts and without temperature control, and aging (with racking) in used American oak barrels. The 2017 Reserva is almost entirely Tempranillo from higher altitude plots in Rioja Alta. Grapes were destemmed with fermentation in fiberglass and stainless steel, followed by aging for 35 months in neutral (mainly American) oak barrels. Unfortunately for the estate, there was 70% loss in 2017 due to frost, and the only grapes they did harvest were from the Gembres vineyard (their best site). This was the only wine they produced in 2017, and though the yields were extremely low, the concentration and quality of the fruit was outstanding. This is a delicate, elegant Reserva, with nice lift and acid. The nose shows classic Rioja character: cherry, dried tobacco, and earth with just a hint of that herbal, dill-like note that signals the use of American oak barrels. This offers tons of pleasure right now, and could certainly be held for the next 10 to 15 years. A perfect "drink or hold" wine.