
New Arrivals from Willamette: Antiquum Farm, Bow & Arrow, Fossil & Fawn
New Arrivals from Willamette: Antiquum Farm, Bow & Arrow, Fossil & Fawn
Here's a small but inspiring collection of new arrivals from Oregon's Willamette Valley, home to some of the most exciting producers working today and a place known as much for its classically made Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays as it is for the diverse array of grapes and styles that make up the region's winemaking history. Many will remind you of the fact that the Willamette Valley lies along the same latitude and bears some striking similarities to Burgundy in terms of sunlight and rainfall, though it really is a region unlike any other. With a wide range of microclimates and a dedicated group of growers willing to experiment with any number of grapes along with winemakers working in a variety of styles, there is no shortage of unique, quality wines coming out of Oregon - and today's offer has a little something for everyone!
One such producer pushing the boundaries of how we think of winemaking in relation to farming is Stephen Hagen, who along with his wife Niki planted what became Antiquum Farm in 1999. Beyond simply making wine using organic and biodynamic methods, Stephen has installed a system of farming he refers to as grazing-based viticulture, where pigs, sheep, geese, chickens and turkeys roam freely year-round, naturally maintaining healthy cover-crop cycles and providing fertilization without the need for any outside soil manipulation. The animals live in harmony with the vineyards and each other, providing natural pest and disease mitigation. It's a fascinating system explained more in detail via their website, where you can also see more pictures of the many workers keeping these vines healthy!
One interesting effect of creating this self-regenerating ecosystem is monitoring the changes happening within different parts of the vineyard. Stephen explained during a recent visit that since around 2010 the Pinot Noir grapes developed thicker skin and a deeper blue hue, with subtle differences throughout the property even from row to row. The Pinot Gris ranges in color from yellow/green to deep purple, and can have multiple colors in one bunch. Stephen related how as they've developed their ecostystem they've been able to pick later, with the same levels of ripeness but more physiological maturity, adding compexity and depth to the wines. The vineyards, which make up about 14.5 acres of the 140 acre property, are high in elevation and contain a thin layer of bellpine topsoil with volcanic and sedimentary soils beneath. The wines are a unique look into terroir as an ever-changing system that goes well beyond soil and climate, and are all made in ways that let the fruit shine - spontaneous fermentation, no fining/filtration, etc. Quantities are limited so don't miss out on these distinct wines!
We are also happy to bring in some new arrivals from Bow & Arrow, led by winemaker Scott Frank, who worked with Willamette legend John Paul of Cameron Winery before starting his own winery in 2010. Working out of an urban winery in Portland, Scott is a champion of France's Loire Valley and uses many Loire grapes to showcase the unique terroir of Oregon, including some amazing Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. His wines are pure with an emphasis on drinkability, using organic grapes and zero intervention in the cellar but not fussy about the "natural wine" label, instead focusing on making deicious, affordable wines that can be enjoyed any day of the week.
Lastly we have the return of one of our perennial summer favorites from Fossil & Fawn, which grew out of Jim Fischer and Jenny Mosbacher's project making tiny amounts of natural wines from their family vineyard (Silvershot Vineyard) in 2011. Since then they've grown to produce a range of wines using grapes grown both at Silvershot and neighboring vineyards that share the same organic philosophies. The Do Nothing coferment is an ideal summer red that changes from year to year but generally includes a blend of Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. It's somewhere in-between red, rosé and orange wine, but who needs classification when there's a delicious bottle of wine to drink? Their Pinot Noir has become something of a revelation in terms of price-to-quality and has become a go-to for myself and many of our customers wanting a high quality Pinot at a reasonable price. Jeff DiLorenzo