Tricot, Marie et Vincent 2023 VdF Desire

From the Auvergne—perhaps better known for Volvic mineral water and charcuterie than for wine—comes this incredible bottle of Chardonnay. Tricot is the village leader in Orcet, a small town with volcanic soil. With less than six hectares of vines, Tricot has been working organically for many years. The plot of Chardonnay that gives this wine was planted in 1973 and has been farmed without chemicals since then. Aged in old barrel, the wine is quite lush and full-bodied and reminds us in some ways of a ripe Mâcon wine. Made entirely without SO2, this is a squeaky clean white that is oh-so delicious in the '23 vintage.