Tomorrow, more than 50,000 people from all over the world who are far more ambitious and physically fit than myself will be running through the five boroughs in what has become a 50+ year-old tradition, the largest marathon on earth and a joyous, uplifting celebration of New York. I won’t be among the runners (I ran a 5K once and decided that’s enough Ks for me) but I will happily cheer them on from the sidelines and offer as many hoots and hollers of encouragement as I can muster. There may be a beverage or two involved, and what better way to celebrate this beautiful city and its people than to drink wine made just a few hours north?! I can’t think of one, so today the focus is on the great wines of New York!

I first tasted Ria’s Wines around this time last year at the very cool Big Little Fair, a New York focused wine and spirits fair showcasing some of the up-and-coming producers from the area. I was initially impressed with the wines' precision and balance in combination with their distinct personality, bursting with energy but still polished and contained. It was somewhat surprising for a new producer, but makes sense given the pedigree of the duo behind the wines, Ria D’Aversa and Mike Penn. Ria is an expert in organic farming and cool-climate viticulture, having worked for a number of winemakers including Broc Cellers in Berkeley and Hermann Wiemer in the Finger Lakes, among others. She is a professor at the Cornell School of Integrative Plant Science and is working toward organic, sustainable, regenerative farming in an area known to be difficult to achieve such practices. She is accompanied by winemaker and co-owner Mike Penn, who has worked at wineries in France, Italy, Australia, New Zealand, Washington State, California and New York. The duo moved to the Finger Lakes in 2021 and found what would become their Estate Vineyard, located along the eastern shore of Seneca Lake. They make fresh and accessible wines using classic regional varietals like Riesling and Cabernet Franc, along with some hybrid varietals that will challenge any pre-conceived notions you might have about hybrid wines. While tasting recently I was particularly blown away by their Sunny Side White, a blend of Cayuga and Vidal Blanc that’s equal parts refreshing and complex. I’m excited to see how this project evolves, but the wines are already delicious and deserving of attention!

Many don’t know that it was the production of sparkling wines that first put the Finger Lakes on the map, dating back to the 1800s when some of the first wines from the region were made by Pleasant Valley Wine Company. Producers in Champagne took note and began exploring the area’s potential for making great sparkling wines, noting some similarities in climate and growing conditions. Over the years it became less of a focus, although there are some producers still valiantly carrying the torch and making some outstanding New York bubbly. One such producer is Empire Estate, a collaboration between Thomas Pastuszak and winemaker Kelby James Russell. Pastuszak comes from the restaurant world, having served as the wine director for The NoMad Hotel in Manhattan before venturing into winemaking. Russell, a Finger Lakes native, made wines at Red Newt Cellars before joining with Thomas at Empire Estate and launching his own winery, Apollo’s Praise. Together they make two outstanding sparkling wines, a Blanc de Blancs of Riesling and the ever so delicious Brut Rosé, which is the same Riesling base with the addition of a small amount of Pinot Noir. In addition to these two sparklers they craft some incredible Riesling, both in their entry level Dry Riesling and the Reserve Dry Riesling. These are complex, gastronomic expressions of the grape that defines the Finger Lakes, with a percentage of botrytized fruit which adds depth and texture to the high acid, mineral backbone of these wines. The wines are truly compelling, and a cool side story is that the label design is by none other than New York legend Milton Glaser, who frequented the NoMad when Thomas worked there and after some convincing agreed to do the labels. 

In addition to these two producers who are new to our shelves, we’re happy to have some new wines from Barbichette, who we’ve written about more in depth here, and a longtime friend of the store, Eminence Road Farm Winery, who you can read more about here. Of particular note is a wine César Vega and Louisiane Remy at Barbichette haven’t been able to make for a few years due to frost, a skin-contact Gewurztraminer called Chette Baker (of course named after jazz legend Chet). The new arrivals from Eminence Road also feature a special wine that is about equal parts Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, called Hector, which will be the last time wine will be made from these vines. Winemaker Andrew Scott had written a thoughtful note on the wine: 

"The last wine from this block. At the very bottom of Leidenfrost vineyard there were a few rows planted to cabernet franc and sauvignon. Spur pruned, full of weeds, gnarly 30-plus year-old vines growing right out of the rocks. The wine always tastes just like standing down there, somehow, and we cherished those grapes. Over the past few years the block has started to decline due to leafroll virus. The vines will be pushed out, the soil will have a rest and who knows what the future holds. This 2023 blend is our last vinous communication from these plants. Raised in the first two barrels we ever bought--way back in 2009--made of Pennsylvania white oak air seasoned for three years."