The Singular Champagnes of Cédric Bouchard

12/8/17 -

Among the visionary growers of Champagne, Cédric Bouchard of Roses de Jeanne might be considered something of an auteur. Which is to say that all of his efforts in the vines and cellar advance his vision: that expression of each vineyard is paramount. Contrary to the Champenois tradition of blending, each cuvée is derived from one grape and one parcel and one vintage. The grapes are vinified to maximize the sense of terroir and fruit while eliminating those elements that Bouchard finds extraneous. To this end the base wines are fermented in stainless steel (he has described wood as “makeup”), he never chaptalizes, and always vinifies without filtering, fining or cold stabilization.  Finally, the wines are bottled with no dosage under less pressure than other Champagnes to produce a more delicate bead, thereby lending more transparency to the terroir within. There is a great purity to these Champagnes, which are taut, dry, vinous, and frank in their minerality. While it is considered controversial by some, if there is a Champagne that lends itself to decanting, young Roses de Jeanne can often benefit from a bit of air to allow it to unfurl.

-John McIlwain