The Great Champagnes of André Beaufort, 1990 - 2011!
12/19/16 -
We are very proud to feature a new selection of the extraordinary Champagnes of André Beaufort! Primarily available at natural wine shops in France, Italy and Japan (and on the wine list at Noma), we are happy to bring 12 exceptional examples to New York, all of which show the intense "vinosity" and complexity found in the Beaufort Champagnes - products of superb farming, living soils, extended sur-lie aging and the commitment of the Beaufort family to create true Champagnes of terroir. Please note that although the Beaufort wines normally receive a dosage of 9 to 10 grams per liter, a number of today's offerings are Brut Nature, and most have been disgorged for this shipment, in October 2016. Quantities are extremely limited, especially for the 1996 Demi-Sec and Rosé Doux.
"Domaine André Beaufort has farmed organically since the early 1970s and, to our knowledge, the only grower rivaling Beaufort in long-time organic vine-growing in Champagne is Vincent Laval in Cumières. The philosophy of organic winemaking has been passed along to the younger Beaufort generation (nine in total), several of whom work within the family Domaine. (In fact, Amaury, second eldest, now runs the Domaine.) In an attempt to reduce the use of copper and sulfur in the vineyards (the two treatments against oidium and mildew that are allowed under organic viticulture), the Beauforts have devised various homeopathic remedies to treat the vines. Vinifications at Beaufort are generally 8-10 months long and fermentation always takes place with native yeasts. Even in years when the yeasts are “lazy,” the Beauforts prefer to allow the wine to go through its various stages of natural fermentation than to inoculate. Sulfur is added only at disgorgement and is present in moderate quantities (40mg/liter).
As we know from ample experience, environmentally responsible farming, native yeasts, and minimal sulfur additions are not enough to make great wine. What we find as we taste Beaufort’s Champagnes is that they are quite distinct, delicious, and compelling in their expression of both the terroir of Ambonnay, where the Domaine is based, and Polisy in the Aube, where Jacques Beaufort planted Pinot Noir vines in the 1960s. The house style is broad, earthy, and rich, and the Beauforts remain straunchly true to their house style. For the most part, Beaufort’s Brut Champagnes are dosed at 9-10 grams/liter of sugar. Dosages may not be hip in some circles, but they help the aging process, and Beaufort maintains extensive stocks of older vintages, all aged on the lees and freshly disgorged." (Sophie Barrett 2013)
