The Charm of Ciliegiolo

The more I learn about Italian wine, the more I am staggered by the sheer number of grapes that are indigenous to the country.  Beyond the more familiar varieties like Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, there are almost 400 distinct varieties registered with the Italian government and as many as 400 other traditional varieties that are still unregistered. It's well beyond the scope of possibility to cover every single one of these grapes, but periodically I'd like to highlight some more obscure but noteworthy Italian grape varieties.

I can think of no grape I'd rather start with than Ciliegiolo, an underappreciated grape that is native to Tuscany and grown all across central Italy.  The grape thrives in warm hillside vineyards, especially in areas like Maremma and Chianti, and is not traditionally bottled as a varietal wine.  Ciliegiolo has always been closely linked to Sangiovese.  Not only do they share a genetic relationship, they are also often blended with one another, Ciliegiolo smoothing out the sharper edges of Sangiovese.  Vinified on its own, Ciliegiolo produces a wine with a lush red color, distinct cherry fruit (Ciliegiolo means "little cherry"), soft tannic structure, and restrained acidity.  The wines are unabashedly juicy in their appeal and are some of the only Italian red wines that are as enjoyable without food as they are with a meal. Ciliegiolo is currently undergoing a revival after years of losing acreage to make way for French grapes now used in Chianti and other Tuscan wines.  Not only are more Ciliegiolo vines being planted than uprooted, many producers are now also choosing to make varietal Ciliegiolo wines.

Simone Zuccheti of the San Ferdinando estate in Chianti Colli Aretini planted Ciliegiolo vines in 2007 as part of a renewed focus on the native grapes of his area.  The vines are planted on a sandy soil overlying clay with a southern exposure and are vinified with a small percentage of whole cluster bunches.  The resulting wine is a more savory expression of the grape with a delicate herbal tone that is still juicy and easygoing.  Farther south in Umbria, Leonardo Bussoletti has also embraced Ciliegiolo and is producing multiple varietal wines as well as partnering with the University of Milan to help research old clones of the variety. His vineyards range from 10 to 30 years old and are planted on calcareous clay facing north to help retain acidity and create wines with more finesse. On offer today are his fresh and cheerful Ciliegiolo di Narni "0535" vinified in steel and bottled the spring following the harvest, as well as the more sultry "Breccario" partially aged in barrel and rested on the lees for a year. These three wines show Ciliegiolo as I see it: a joyous red wine that is finally receiving the attention it deserves.

-Andy Paynter