Spotlight on the Savoie:
3/3/14 -
As we’ve watched the unusual wines of the Jura reach the heights of wine fashion, we’ve wondered when the Savoie would follow.
I’m compelled to dispel the notion that the Jura and the Savoie have anything to do with one another. The Jura is part of the Franche-Comté, while the Savoie is part of the Rhône-Alpes, and they share little geologically, historically, or viticulturally. When I went to the Savoie several years ago, I learned that one can’t simply pop down from Arbois for a quick tasting in Albertville where Jean-Yves Péron lives, and be back in time for coq au vin jaune. The only unifying factors seem to be that both regions are somewhat shrouded in mystery, and both are located east of Lyon. Despite the lack of any real connection between these places, I find myself observing that as the quantity of Jura wine available has dwindled (due to a combination of tough vintages and increased demand), I’ve been seriously impressed by the quality of the wine coming from the Savoie. While the winemaking traditions are totally different, I’d say the wines of the Savoie and the wines of the Jura scratch the same itch: a need for textured, fleshy, complex white wine, and woodsy, aromatic red. Attention Jura lovers: it's time to take notice of the Savoie!
We’ve thoroughly enjoyed the wines of the Dupasquier family since first tasting several years ago. This moderately sized Domaine in the Aimavigne commune benefits from having vines in Marestel, one of only a few recognized “Crus” of the Savoie. Marestel is an incredibly steep, south-facing slope giving wines that are quite ripe, mineral-driven, and age-worthy. To be called “Marestel,” the wine must be made from the Altesse grape, yet the beautifully sweet-fruited and rustic reds of Dupasquier have a sun-drenched quality that seems to speak of this unique terroir. All are fermented with native yeast, aged in old barrels, and spend a few additional years in bottle before release; these are classic, elegant wines that show the Rhône-ish character Savoie wines sometimes have.
We now turn your attention to the soaring and gorgeous wines of Dominique and Patrick Belluard in the Ayse Cru of the Savoie, between Geneva and Chamonix-Mont-Blanc, where Belluard is by far the most notable winemaker. From time to time likened to Robert Plageoles in Gaillac who replanted ancient, indigenous varieties, Belluard is credited with having saved the white Gringet grape, which dates back to Roman times and was once planted in great abundance in this part of the Savoie. Belluard has about ten hectares with half a hectare each of Altesse and Mondeuse. This is our first opportunity to welcome Belluard's Altesse to the shop. We are thrilled. The Domaine was founded in the 1940s and began conversion to biodynamics in the early 2000s. The wines are fermented and aged in concrete eggs, a technique that in this case – according to our palates – gives pure and delicious results. These are rich and intense wines from low yielding vines grown on south-facing slopes; they are exotic and unusual, and for those who had the pleasure of tasting the 2011s from Bellu, the 2012s are more chiseled and stony. Made in tiny quantities, they are hardly ever available. Grab them while you can!
Additionally we have a new vintage of Franck Peillot’s dreamy Altesse from Bugey, and an exciting skin-contact Jacquère and Altesse blend from our favorite avant-garde vigneron in the region, Jean-Yves Péron, and crunchy Persan from Nicholas Gonin in Isère... Santé! -Sophie
