Roero Revealed: The Transparent Wines of Chiesa
11/1/17-
The terroirs of Barolo and Barbaresco have been endlessly examined and explored by wine drinkers seeking out different expression of Nebbiolo; however, the wines of Roero just to the north seem to have a bit of a hazy image. It is a region composed of steep slopes of soils that are largely sandy and well draining. Nebbiolo grown here gives wines that are more delicate in texture and earlier maturing than their neighbors to the south, even when they are no less refined. Unfortunately, many of the Roero wines that I have tasted seem to regard this freshness as a deficit in the wine instead of one of the greatest assets of Nebbiolo from the region. The distinct aroma that the wines can show is often clouded by new oak or muddled by over-extraction rather than celebrated.
The wines of Azienda Agricola Chiesa Carlo show none of this insecurity, embracing the unique terroir of the region and producing real wines of character. The estate has been around since the mid-1700s and is currently headed by Carlo Chiesa. The farm is truly a family affair with multiple generations working daily on various crops that are cultivated in polyculture to support diversity on the property. The steep, mostly south-eastern facing slopes are largely planted to Nebbiolo and Arneis, and the vines are worked without chemical intervention. As the property has never changed hands they can say with definite knowledge that the soil has never been treated with chemical fertilizers, herbicides, or pesticides. A similarly rigorous approach is used in the cellar, where wines are made utilizing only native yeasts, and are raised in a combination of large old barrels and steel tanks.
The results are wines that speak clearly to me as something special. The Nebbiolos are noticeably fresher than many others from the region with bright acidity that have a distinct perfume in the glass. They are immensely enjoyable now and could certainly stand a few more years in the cellar. The Arneis is a real treat, a grape that went from nearly extinct to ubiquitous in a generation. The Roero is the ancestral homeland of Arneis and the region where it can produce its most alluring wines, at least under the stewardship of a careful hand like the Chiesa family. In contrast to so many Arneis wines, Chiesa ferments theirs without the use of cultured yeast, spurning manufactured flavors in favor of the natural aromatics of one of Piedmont's most misunderstood varieties.
For the third year running we are very proud to carry the wines of Chiesa. Join us in welcoming Daniele and Davide, representatives of the youngest generation of the Chiesa family, to the store for a tasting on Friday, November 3rd, from 5 to 7 pm.
- Andy Paynter
