Popes, Icons, and New Wines from Puffeney and Montbourgeau

9/26/11 -

These are exciting times for Jura wine lovers. As interest in this bucolic and Tolkein-esque corner of eastern France has developed, many of the region’s growers have become known here in the US, their wines available to be tasted and cellared. The number of Poulsards, Savagnins, and Trousseaus we now have access to is thrilling! So much light, elegant red wine, and rich, nutty white! Even as we welcome this veritable wealth of new wine from the Jura, we relish the region’s icons: the cherubic, bright-eyed Jacques Puffeney, “Pope of the Arbois,” and the indefatigable Nicole Deriaux of Domaine Montbourgeau. Perhaps because - in person - these are two humble, hardworking, and almost understated vignerons, it’s amusing to think of them trailblazing across the international wine map, their wines paving the way for other growers to be appreciated within our market. The truth is that Puffeney and Montbourgeau are superior Domaines whose wines are iconic and for good reason. The proof is consistently in the bottle. We have new vintages of our favorites in stock from both wonderful growers. 

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Jacques Puffeney, he lives at the top of a small mountain in the tiny village of Montigny-les-Arsures, a five minute drive from the relative metropolis of Arbois. If Pupillin, a south-facing bowl planted entirely to vines, is the home of Poulsard (“Ploussard” as it’s sometimes locally called), Montigny is the home of Trousseau, and many consider Puffeney’s rendition from the “les Berangeres” vineyard to be the apotheosis of this grape variety. Even in a region known for its vignerons' refusal to abandon their old barrels in favor of new barriques, Puffeney is an arch traditionalist. The wines, which can flirt with austerity, are beautiful expressions of terroir with their ineffably Jurassian aromas and firm mineral backbones. They are surprisingly long lived and also quite beguiling as young wines.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with Domaine Montbourgeau, the wines are for the true enthusiast of voile/flor, the naturally occurring yeast that develops on top of the wine in barrel, imparting its unique flavor during the aging process. The village of Etoile is named for star shaped fossils found in the soil, and is practically adjacent to the famed Chateau-Chalon in the center of the Jura. This appellation is known for its Savagnin, but also for its Chardonnay-based wines. Deriaux specializes in the traditional style of wine from the region, wines aged under the veil of yeast until they reach nutty maturity. In part because of their ultra-traditional character, Deriaux’s white wines are some of our favorites from the Jura. Don't miss her fabulous Cremant, a wine that comes in only once or twice a year and is one of the best non-Champagne sparklers of all time. -msb