Pierre André, Clos du Joncuas and la Ferme Saint-Martin; Great Traditional Wines from the Southern Rhone! Rhone Dinner at Racines NY, June 9th!
5/17/15 -
(Pierre and Jacqueline André)
These three great estates are long-time practitioners of organic and biodynamic farming; Clos du Joncuas has farmed organically since 1920 and has been certified since 1980, Domaine Pierre André has been organic "depuis toujours," certified since 1980 and Biodynamic since 1992, and La Ferme Saint-Martin has been a leader in natural wine-making in the Rhone since the 1980s. Furthermore, Clos du Joncuas and Pierre André have ignored modern methods, continuing to ferment with whole-clusters and age in large old barrels or cement vats. The resulting wines are tight and a bit asutere when young but age into beautfully complex expressions of Grenache (with a little help from Syrah, Mourvedre and others). While the grapes are de-stemmed at La Ferme Saint-Martin, making the wines a bit more forward, their great farming and natural vinifications give wines that are decidedly different from their conventional neighbors.
The 2010 Pierre André Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a particularly elegant and complex wine that will age beautifully - perhaps showing at it's best between 2025 and 2035. The average age of vines is extremely high, with some reaching 160 years of age. The whole-cluster fermentations take about 30 days, with aging first in old barrels then concrete vats. Grenache comprises 80% of the blend with 10% Syrah along with Mourvedre, Cinsault, Vaccarese, Counoise and Musacadin. Jacqueline André and family have graciouly sent a few bottles of older vintages which we will be sharing at a dinner at Racines NY on June 9th and any lover of traditional Rhone wines should not hestiate to put some of the 2010 into their cellar.
Currently run by sisters Dany and Carole Chastan, the Clos du Joncuas Gigondas vines are on slopes below the Dentelles de Montmirail on soils of clay with dolomite and gypsum over the limestone of the Dentelles and average 40 to 90 years old. The Chastan family tries to hold back wines to release when somewhat mature and we're very happy to have additional quantities of their two 2005 Gigondas. Especially brilliant is the 2005 "Esprit de Grenache" from 60 year-old massale selection vines. Clos du Joncuas also has excellent parcels in neighboring Vacqueyras and Seguret. The Vacqueyras also needs three to five years of aging while the Seguret drinks well young in a more forward but still quite traditional, complex style. Rounding out their production is an oustanding Gigondas Rosé, certainly one of the finest in the Southern Rhone, and a superb Seguret Blanc made from 50% Clairette, with Roussanne and Marsanne.
Guy Julien at La Ferme Saint-Martin has gradually turned over the reins to his very capable and enthusiastic son Thomas, who is doing fabulous work, constantly improving the farming and fine-tuning the vinifications at this fine estate. The top wine here is the Cuvée Saint-Martin, from 100 year-old Grenache vines, with old vines of Syrah - it's a sensational blend of fruit and terroir expression that is delicious young but best at five to ten years of age. Quality here is exceptional throughout the range, including thier superb Rosé and the intriguing white made from Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Roussanne.
While the weather may finally be turing us towards whites and rosés, the reds from these three estates - complex and full of character - will be perfect complements to grilled foods this summer and we urge you to try them!
