New Releases from Chandon de Briailles and a Dinner with Claude
10/9/13 -
I still remember my first bottle of Chandon de Briailles… a 2002 Savigny-les-Beaune consumed as a novice wine professional in New York City circa 2007. The wine was the soul of elegance and restraint with gorgeous, woodsy red fruits on the nose and beautiful fine tannins (though many would have considered it a baby…). The Domaine was totally unknown to me and, coming from an (albeit short) background of Barthod, Fourrier, and de Montille, I was mightily impressed.
For us at Chambers Street, the wines of Chandon de Briailles have long been synonymous with traditional, age-worthy Burgundy. Based in the villages of Savigny, Corton and Pernand-Vergelesses, vineyard work at Chandon de Briailles has been organic since the late 1980s, and biodynamic since 2005. Yields are kept low to best express the character of each vineyard. We feel as though Chandon’s light-handed style complements the terroirs of Corton and Pernand – villages that give delicate Pinots and rich, mineral-driven Chardonnays. The Domaine has become well-known for the use of whole-cluster fermentation, a technique that gives the wines further structure to age. However it’s worth noting that they have modified their program of whole-cluster fermentation of late to take particularities of vintage into consideration, and are now using less stems than they once did… Winemaking is ultra-traditional with native yeast fermentations and without the influence of new wood.
When one visits the architectural jewel that is the Chandon de Briailles’ picturesque Domaine (on the Rue Soeur Goby) in Savigny les Beaune the first impression is that the pillars and walls of stone are topped with wild lava-like confections of weathered sandstone, which contrasts the classically proportioned stone walls that support these almost bizarre capstones. One enters through the gates and at the back of the courtyard is a perfectly proportioned small manor house built at the beginning of the 18th Century. Claude’s cousin, Jean Charles le Bault de la Marinière of the Domaine Bonneau du Martray, making wine in Corton describes this as “the perfect little house”. Behind it is a strikingly beautiful, tiny garden park designed by Le Notre, who laid out the garden at Versailles.
On either side of the courtyard and cellars are the winemaking facilities. The vaulted wine cellars were built in the 12th Century and the ceiling is of a groined vault construction. It is one of the most atmospheric wine aging rooms in all of Burgundy and is yet another treasure of the architectural richness that personifies this historic Domaine.
We have had the pleasure on a number of occasions to host Claude de Nicolay, current vigneronne at Chandon de Briailles, for tastings, and for the first time this year we’re looking forward to taking her to dinner with a group of our customers at Blue Ribbon Bakery. Below you’ll find a list of the most recent releases from Chandon de Briailles, as well as dinner details. (Monday October 28th at 7pm) We’ll be serving magnums of 2001 Corton Blanc and magnums of 2006 Pernand-Vergelesses “Ile de Vergelesses” brought from the Domaine, to name just a few. It’ll be a four course, family style meal featuring autumnal, gamy, meaty fare, ideal fare for these wines. We hope to see you there… Santé! –Sophie and Beav.
