Matthiasson Wines
[A profile of Steve Matthiasson, photo from T. Edwards Wines.com]
The wines of Steve and Jill Matthiasson are as steadfast and unassuming as the couple themselves. Steve is a bit of a legend in California, having co-authored the California manual on sustainable vineyard practices in 1999, and consulted for or mentored many successful winegrowers since. Jill, who runs the business side, has also dedicated her time to encouraging others to follow in their path of sustainable farming, and she created the "farmer to farmer" network in in the early 1990's. Their mission has always been as farmers first, believing wholeheartedly that "wine is made in the vineyard." Based in the Napa Valley, each vineyard they work with is farmed organically, either certified or transitioning for certification.
One look at these rows and you can see their careful preservation of topsoil and biodiversity (a stark contrast to more conventionally farmed Napa vineyards). The effects of climate change have been devastating in California; drought, wildfires, extreme temperatures, to name a few. The effects of the wildfires this year will be felt for years to come. It is no longer enough to just reduce the harm being done, but actively work to repair it; something that the Matthiassons work hard to accomplish through 'regenerative farming.' Without government intervention there is a serious urgency to convince farmers to make changes on their own, which is why it's so important to see well-respected winemakers in our country's most famous wine region championing the cause, and creating beautiful wines to back it up.
Today we're offering three of our favorites from the Matthiasson line-up, and despite their high-quality and costly, labor-intensive farming practices, these wines are all a wonderful value. The Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, a blend from six vineyards, is by far one of my favorite examples of its kind. Like all of their wines, this bottle is perfectly representative of Napa, while remaining restrained, unencumbered, and precisely balanced. The small percentage of new oak is well integrated, the alcohol kept low with earlier picking, and the impeccably farmed fruit gives this wine complexity and the promise of a long life in the cellar.
If you're looking for an introduction to their work, or you need a new go-to for weeknight dinners, or nights on the fire-escape with friends, the Tendu Red and Village Chardonnay No. 1 are excellent choices. Anyone who came into the store asking for a no-sulfur, natural wine that was also a crowd-pleaser, I introduced to Tendu! This is a lovely blend of Montepulciano, Aglianico, and Barbera with soft, powdery tannins, juicy red and purple fruits, making this easy to enjoy with or without dinner. Steve's work in the vineyard and the cellar lead to this being a consistently clean, classic expression, lacking any 'funkiness' that sometimes presents itself in wines made without preservatives.
The Village Chardonnay was an instant hit with the staff at Chambers Street! We always expect a solid showing from any Matthiasson wine, but at this price, we had no idea Napa Chardonnay could be this good, or this vibrant! Unoaked, elegant, and downright delicious.
For those looking for something really special, we also have available a handful of bottles of Matthiasson Sweet Vermouth based with a blend of Flora, a fascinating cross between Semillon and Gewurztraminer, and Muscat of Alexandria. Though they work hard to farm all of the fruit they use themselves, they couldn't resist the organically farmed Flora of the Yount Mill Vineyard, which seemed perfect for the creation of fortified wine.
-Michelle DeWyngaert
