Clemens Busch - The Mosel Iconoclast
10/22/13 -
(Nelly Busch keeping watch over the Pündericher Marienburg)
We love Clemens and Rita Busch. Not only do they make some of the most distinctive, unexpected wines of the Mosel Valley, they also have some of the biggest hearts of anyone in the wine world. Their humility and gentle, giving spirit comes through in their wines and Clemens’ careful biodynamic stewardship of their land is clearly reflected in the glass. Tasting with him is always a joy, and each year we look forward to our visit to their home in Pünderich across the river from the famous Marienburg, a vineyard that is as closely identified with them as any combination of grower and producer in the world. Nature wasn’t kind this past June and neither was fate; a few of their workers fell ill right as pressure was building in the atmosphere and the risk of rot was high. Rita showed us to the river, and we watched as Clemens and son repeatedly climbed up and down the steep slopes, tirelessly spraying their organic preparations in a vigorous fight to save their young crop. As you’d probably imagine, we were unable to taste with Clemens that day as he worked to protect his vines. Devotion to craft and dedication to the vines are traits that our favorite growers share, and they come through in the finished wine.
The Busches are most well-known for their baroque, richly textured dry whites, the impressive stable that begins with the muscular yet chiseled Marienburg GG and ascends the ladder of parcel specificity and quality up to the lofty heights of such rarities as the Felsetrrasse, Fahrlay-Terrassen and Raffes (all special ungrafted plots within the Marienburg). No one else on the Mosel makes wines like these; they’re unique and riveting and have gained quite a following. Over the past few years, more and more of their expansive line of production has been brought into the States; the various styles all tase so good, from light-bodied and bone-dry to opulently sweet and rich, we just couldn’t resist offering them all!
One new arrival that has really piqued the interest of many here in the shop is the Estate Riesling Trocken LS, a wine that is, as far as we know, the first low-sulfur German Riesling to be imported to the United States in the modern age. It’s terrific, and the comparison with the light-as-a-feather 2011 Estate Trocken is a fascinating exercise. Acidity is a remarkable preservative and Germany has among the highest levels in the world of wine. The time has come for more low-sulfur experiments such as these, and we’re beyond encouraged by this first result.
Additionally, please take note of the Busch family’s contribution to the classic Mosel canon with their Marienburg Riesling Kabinett; at just 9 degrees alcohol it practically bubbles over with freshness. The famous Busch line of monumental, Savennieres-like dry (or almost dry) Rieslings are represented here by the Marienburg GG, the Falkenlay GG and the mind-bending Fahrlay-Terrassen, the 2011 of which is the wine’s inaugural vintage in the U.S. Going back a bit to the stellar 2010 vintage, we just received stunningly beautiful half-bottles of Goldkap Auslese, a wine that clocks in at a whopping 14 g/l acid, and we still have a few bottles left of the feinherb-style 2010 Falkenlay.*
Also available on demand, direct from the estate, are a number of nobly sweet wines all in 375ml format, including the 2011 Spätlese Goldkapsel ($29.99), 2011 Rothenpfad Auslese ($57.99), 2007 Auslese Goldkapsel ($82.99) and the 2007 Fahrlay Beerenauslese ($234.99).
*These nomenclature footnotes seem to pop up in every one of our German emails, but it’s worth noting that Clemens doesn’t believe in adding cultured yeasts to shepherd any of his wines to dryness; thus the Falkenlay is totally dry in 2011 and designated GG (Grosses Gewächs, a dry wine from a producer’s top vineyard), while the 2010 is not labeled as such. Regardless of the VDP’s labeling demands, both wines are well-balanced and both are excellent.
