Champagne Thomas Perseval

One of the joys of working with grower Champagnes is the process of discovery. Whereas the big houses can make very good wines (though more often than not, farming leaves a lot to be desired), even at their best they can be a bit predictable. Over the past few years watching a new generation of Champenois take over their families' vines has been inspiring. The wines seem more alive and energetic as the young vignerons improve the farming, converting to organics and biodynamics, and also adjust their winemaking to highlight terroir.

One young grower whom we've grown to love is the soft-spoken, humble, and talented Thomas Perseval. He farms 2.5 hectares of vines in Chamery on the northwestern edge of the Montagne de Reims. Per Selection Massale the soils are clay, sand, and “Calcaire limoneux.” The farming is certified organic with light tilling and grass is planted between the vines, the initial fermentations are with native yeasts, the wines undergo natural malolactic fermentation and are bottled with lower dosage than those of those of his parents’ domaine, Perseval Harteel. Perseval’s wines shine brightly, displaying that magical combination of energy, purity, and precision that makes one bolt upright from one’s chair. The entire range is highly recommended.

-John McIlwain