Broc Cellars: Made with Love
6/7/21 -
The other night we opened up a sample of the multi-vintage, multi-grape bottling from Broc Cellars, 'Got Grapes'. What we expected to be a rather straightforward 'glou-glou' chillable red, stole our attention for over an hour! We were each so taken by its sheer deliciousness, that it reminded us that a wine need not be overly complex to be captivating. Every time I taste a new bottle from Broc Cellars there is a sense that the person making them does so with love. Forgive me, I know how cheesey that must sound, but there is a warmth, a joy, in these wines that comes beaming through regardless of the grape or vintage.
Chris Brockway, the winemaker for and owner of Broc Cellars has exactly the kind of philosophy that we champion at Chambers Street Wines. He believes that wines should be made without additives, little to no sulfur, and must come from fruit farmed without synthetic chemical intervention. Natural wine can mean something different to so many people, often used because it is "trendy", but at Broc Cellars they go out of their way to demonstrate transparency. For each wine they make there is an in-depth note about exactly what is harvested from which vineyards/regions, the farming practices used, and what transpired in the cellar before bottling.
The "Love" line of wines truly embody their name! These are meant to be drunk young, fresh, and without pretention. The 'Love Red' this year is a Goldilocks of wines; just enough tannin, just enough body, and perfectly juicy acidity. The 'Love Rosé' is about to arrive and if it is anything like last year it will be delightful.
The 'Amore Bianco' is stellar, and deserves more attention. Here the grape Tocai Friulano (aka Sauvignon Vert) is allowed to shine in all it's bright, herbal glory. This lesser know variety is found predominantly in Italy, but as Californians are known to experiment, it made its way to the Fox Hill Vineyard. Fox Hill is home to several Italian grape varieties brought over as 'suitcase cuttings' which are now thriving in the rocky, riverbed soil, just north of the Russian River. This wine is clearly inspired by Italy, but with an extra sunny, Broc Cellars touch making it bright and approachable, and of course an excellent food pairing for spring/summer vegetables.
While clearing out the cellar during inventory, I discovered a bottle of the 2017 Green Valley Valdiguié and was reminded of this wonderful variety. Valdiguie was once referred to as "Napa Gamay" and it certainly does have many similarities, with just a bit more density and darker fruit. This will be perfect at barbeques and outdoor dining, and now that it's a few years old the tannins are beginning to soften and mellow. Sadly, there's only a handful of bottles left from this vintage left! From further north, Broc Cellars utilizes another vineyard of nearly 100 year-old Valdiguié vines, the Rosewood Vineyard in Mendocino. Here the climate is a bit cooler, and the extra acidity that gives the grapes make them perfect for a dry, frothy sparkling rosé made in the method ancestral.
These are wines to make you smile. They are fresh, vibrant, and unfussed with, but still give you plenty to discover. If you are not already in love with natural wines from California, a bottle from Broc Cellars should turn you around. Michelle DeWyngaert
