Bordeaux Biologiques!

We're not sure why the French term for organic is "biologique," but whatever you call it, recent data suggests that the percentage of organic certified vineyards in France is somewhere between 15 and 22 percent, depending on who you believe. In the "satellite" regions around Bordeaux, consisting of mostly small family-owned vineyards, the percentage is quite high and even the famous appellations of Saint-Emilion and Pomerol have a respectable number of "biologique" estates. Once we cross the river to the left bank however, we find very little organic farming, despite the recent conversion of some heavy-hitters, including Palmer, Latour and Pontet-Canet. Today's email features some of the Medoc, Pomerol and Saint-Emilion estates which have chosen organic farming, agro-forestry and biodiversity as pathways to better wine, as well as a few of the superb and affordable Bordeaux from Blaye, the Haut-Medoc and Saint-Emilion that are imported for Chambers Street.

What's all the fuss about? Early organic certifications, beginning in the 1960's, we're often at domains that refused to apply chemical herbicides, pesticides and fungicides due to the toxicity of the products, such as at Domaine Guion in Bourgueil (1965), which used the Lemaire-Boucher method of organic farming. (No chemicals, no deep plowing) Then came the early converts to Biodynamics such as Pierre Frick and Jean-Claude Rateau using the theories of Rudolf Steiner, adapted for farming by Maria Thun, as well as vignerons in Beaujolais who followed the research of Jules Chauvet, who advocated for wild yeast fermentations, no chaptalization and minimal added SO2.

For me, it was the publication of Lydia and Claude Bourguignon's "Le sol, la terre et les Champs" in 2001 that made clear the importance of organic farming to wine quality. This amazing book presents in great detail the incredibly complex and powerful life of the soil and the transformation of bedrock and humus into nutrients and micro-nutrients usable by plants through the actions of soil fauna and mycorrhizal fungi - living soils which are destoyed by pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilizers, and excess plowing, which 'in exposing the earth to the sun and the rain, are the cause of the disappearance of organic matter and the desertification of soils."

Which brings us to Bordeaux, especially, where industrial farming became the norm in the 1970s, with an excess of chemical fertilizers, pesticides and above all, the total weed control by herbicides, which brought about a loss of quality in the wines. "These wines, products of a soil biologically dead, no longer aged with tastes of the earth, of truffle, of mushroom, of sous-bois, of dead leaves, of silex, of stone. Good-by to the beautiful minerality in the finish. They became flat, empty, exhausted by age." (From "Le sol. la terre et les champs")

Happily, many of the estates in today's offer have been organic or Biodynamic for many years and are making superb wines of terroir. Others, especially among the grand Chateaux and wealthy owners of the Medoc, have recently converted or are taking bold steps towards better farming and environmental responsibility. We applaud their efforts and hope you will try some of these new and improved Bordeaux Biologiques!

Vines at the Biodynamic Chateau Fonplegade

A few notes on the estates:

Chambers Street customers need no introduction to these two over-achieving Bordeaux estates owned by the Hubert family, Chateau Peybonhomme-Les-Tours and Chateau La Grolet, certified organic and Biodynamic since the 1990s. Located in Bourg and Blaye on the right bank of the Gironde (roughly opposite Margaux), and situated on classic gravel and clay/limestone soils, the great farming and winemaking at both domains produces some of the most authentic and affordable wines of Bordeaux.

Chateau Micalet, Haut-Medoc - with a few hectares in the commune of Lamarque was classified "Cru Artisan" by Feret in 1893. Acquired by the Fedieu family in 1972, the estate was enlarged slightly, never using herbicides, and with a new generation the conversion to organic agriculture was started in 2006. The estate now has 10 hectares on deep beds of gravel, planted at 8,000 pieds/hectare; the normal blend is 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot - and 7% Petit Verdot, a grape the Fedieus feel is particularly important. The grapes are harvested by hand and undergo a 3 to 4 week fermentation, the wine ages in barrique, 30% new. The 2019 "Origine" is a slightly lighter and more ready-to-drink version of their Haut-Medoc, with a shorter cuvaison and without aging in wood - serve it slightly cool with grilled foods this summer…

Chateau La Grave Figeac, Saint-Emlion

Owners Laurent and Caroline Clauzel converted the estate to organic farming over many years achieving certification in 2012 and Biodynamic certification began in 2021. The estate is beautifully situated at the border of Pomerol, it's neighbors being Cheval Blanc and Figeac in Saint-Emilion and La Conseillante in Pomerol. The wines are balanced, never over-extracted or over-oaked, with very pretty aromas and great terroir expression. Fermentations are with wild yeasts, sulfur use is minimal (only after the malo) and aging is in barrique, amphora and foudre - "what we search for above all is balance and elegance'" says M. Clauzel. The estate is comprised of three parcels on varied terroirs. The first, at the chateau, is three hectares entirely surrounded by the vines of Cheval Blanc and La Conseillante on stone/sandy soils with "crasse de fer," the vines averaging 60 years-old. (center of map) The second, also 3 hectares, abuts the vines of Figeac on sandier soils, including 1.5 ha of younger vines for the "Pavillon" and 1.5 ha of very old vines, both Merlot and Cabernet Franc (bottom of map). The third parcel is .65 ha of Cabernet Franc sandwiched between Gazin and L'Evangile on limestone rocks over clay with crasse de fer (also found at Pétrus, top of map, in yellow).

These are deeply satisfying Saint-Emilions, sharing the qualities of Pomerol on iron-rich soils.

Chateau Fonplegade, Saint-Emilion

At Château Fonplégade, we are proud to be one of the pioneers of biodynamic viticulture on Bordeaux's legendary Right Bank. We feel it is our privilege and responsibility to be devoted stewards of this precious land so that it may be preserved for generations to come." We received our organic farming certification in 2013, after a rigorous three-year evaluation process, and the result inspired us to seek biodynamic certification, that we obtained in 2020. . By practicing biodiversity on our estate and taking a holistic approach to farming, we are working together to elevate the quality of our wines to its greatest heights. To this end, our estate provides a hospitable home not only to grapevines, but to sheep, chickens and honey bees.- Denise Adams, Proprietor.

Chateau Fonroque and Chateau Mazeyres, Saint-Emilion and Pomerol Currently owned by the Guillard family. After serving as director for 29 years, Alain Moueix took on the role of consultant in 2021. He is the embodiment of the estates in all their forms. His notable experience in biodynamics at Château Fonroque since 2002 was extended to Château Mazeyres from 2011 onwards.

At Fonroque and Mazeyres, biodynamics means implementing an experimental toolkit that enables us to support natural phenomena in order to gain the best possible results in terms of resistance to disease, supporting growth processes, and quality levels.

We use precise preparations to promote organic vigour and minerals in the soil as well as the plant’s growth rhythm, and draw on its spontaneous relationship with the soil, the moon and the constellations. Our agricultural practices are influenced by the work of Maria Thun, who built extensively on the previous work of Rudolf Steiner, as this offers us a very relevant reading grid that nevertheless required some transposition as it did not make specific reference to winegrowing. The work this inspired is designed to encourage vines to achieve their archetypal potential, resulting in a decisive impact on the wines’ form of expression.

Chateau Bellegrave, Pomerol

Owneer Jean-Marie Bouldy began organic conversion in 2001 achieving certification in 2009. "This is not magic, but agronomy, and a new dialogue with the land. Nor is it a return to the Middle Ages, in fact quite the opposite: the approach is built on cutting-edge science and technology with an all-inclusive view of the plant, the soil, the climate, the seasons, the moon, biodiversity, and flora and fauna. Hares are back running between the rows and birds are nesting again beneath the Merlot leaves. Most of the work is done among the vines, without any need for being interventionist in the winery: the quality of the fruit alone is enough, as the grapes now have incomparable flavour!"

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan

Surrounded by forests, hedges, and hives, the 87 hectares, one block estate is standing alone as a green island. We are now certified organic and our wines have gained greater purity and intensity. Covered with Gravels « Graves Gunziennes », the vines are digging at more than 6 meters deep their resources, and the grapes benefit from the stones’ miror effect from the sun for a perfect ripening. We are now certified organic and our wines have gained greater purity and intensity"

Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Cru Classé de Graves

From the outset, the terroir at Chevalier has never had to suffer from the use of harmful products, such as herbicides or chemical fertilisers, which can permanently damage the health of the plants and the balance of the soil.The extension of organic and biodynamic farming to all vineyards managed by Domaine de Chevalier, since 2021, is a decisive step on the path that has been followed since 2010.

Chateau Paloumey, Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel converted to organic farming in 2016 and obtained certification for the 2019 vintage. The estate is also practicing agroforestry with rows of trees replacing rows of vines in many parcels. The main parcels are in Ludon-Medoc on beds of gravel and sand, bordering those of La Lagune and Cantelmerle.

Gonzague & Claire Lurton

Two historical families in the production and commercialization of great Bordeaux wines: The Merlaut’ family, from which Claire comes, and the Lurton’ family Gonzague’s. They take over the lead of their respective family estates in 1992 and 1993. Gonzague inherits Chateau Durfort-Vivens, Grand Cru Classé in 1855 in Margaux. As for Claire, she inherits Chateau Haut-Bages Libéral, Grand Cru Classé in 1855 in Paulliac, Chateau Ferriere, Grand Cru Classé in 1855 in Margaux, and Chateau La Gurgue, in Margaux. Today, they cultivate the largest certified biodynamic area of all the Bordeaux Since the beginning of the 2000s Gonzague and Claire Lurton have been converting the entirety of their vineyards to virtuous agriculture thus respecting the biodiversity of the soil. In the same manner, to encourage biodiversity, they have not hesitated to replace rows of vines by trees or hedges according to the principles of agroecology. For Gonzague and Claire this evolution is the prerequisite in continuing to produce living wines and in ensuring the longevity of their estates. (Photo at top from from G & C Lurton vineyards)

Chateau Pedesclaux, Pauillac

At Pédesclaux, the vineyards are farmed organically or, in the case of certain plots, biodynamically. Since the Lorenzetti family acquired the estate in 2009, respect for the land and for the environment have been at the heart of their approach to viticulture. This unique vineyard is located right at the heart of Pauillac’s superb terroir. The soils are deep gravel, blended with clay and limestone in certain places. The vines are 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. The estate is entirely committed to sustainable viticulture that respects the environment and plays the long game, nurturing the microbial life of the soils and giving special consideration to mycorrhization. This way of working is made even more successful by plot rotation, where each patch of soil spends time under grass, and by the use of compost or green manure. Massal selection helps to preserve the genetic diversity of the vineyards, as well as protecting their unique character.

Chateau Lafon-Rochet, Saint-Estephe

(Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 30%, Cabernet Franc 5%) The 45 hectares of Château Lafon-Rochet’s vineyards span across two hillsides in Saint-Estèphe. On one side, gravel provides excellent natural drainage, which is optimal for our Cabernet Sauvignon. On the other, clay regulates natural water reserves and provides our vines a perfect balance. The estate began a vast agroecology program in 2019 including organic farming, cover crops in the vineyard and the planting of thousands of hedges and trees among the vines. (estate website)

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