1/23/26 -

Our journey of 2024s from Germany brings us to the Nahe today with the stunning Rieslings from Emrich-Schönleber. The family's history in the region dates back to the mid-18th century but it wasn't until 1965 that Wilhelm Schönleber began to turn the property that once comprised of agriculture, livestock, and winegrowing solely to a winegrowing estate. Wilhelm and his son Werner took the vineyard area from 2 to 10 hectares under vines between 1965-1985 helping to form the estate as we know it today. Fast forward to current times, they now farm nearly 20 hectares and Frank Schönleber is now working alongside his father Werner to continue creating distinct, floral, and mineral dry Rieslings. Werner devotes most of his time to the vines, making sure they are nurtured and healthy, while Frank's attention switches to the cellar once harvest begins. In an interview with Stephen Bitterolf (watch it here) Werner said his goal is to make wines, "that create the desire, the joy, for another glass. A wine that is easy to drink, that the bottle's too quickly emptied and you're almost surprised."
 
I think his words comprise the style and beauty of these wines perfectly. These are joyous wines that are able to provide incredible enjoyment young, but when it comes to their GGs, the reward is even greater for those who have the patience to age them. But don't fret, there are some incredible wines here to drink while you're waiting for the others to age.  

In a world of sometimes confusing German wine labels (even for me!) I find these wines to be very approachable, both what is in and outside the bottle. Their vineyards are concentrated in the village of Monzingen, specifically between four vineyard sites: Frühlingsplätzchen, Halenberg, Auf der Ley, and Niederberg. Auf der Ley is only sold at auction so for today's purposes we are going to focus on the remaining three which make up 8 of the 10 wines on offer today. 
 
Niederberg is the sole 1er cru site from Emrich-Schönleber and this vintage they made a Trocken and Kabinett. It is the coldest and highest site, on the top of the hill on blue slate soils. These wines are incredibly balanced and the perfect wine to drink now (or later) while you wait for the GGs to age. Which brings us to, Halensberg and Frühlingsplätzchen. The two vineyards make up the bulk of where the remainder of the wines are sourced. Each has its respective GG, as well as a corresponding young vine expression, Halgans and Fruhtau. These two wines might just be some of the best values available for dry Riesling! Next is Mineral, a young vine bottling that is a blend from Halensberg and Frühlingsplätzchen, the 2024 is floral, elegant, and has beautiful lift. It's the sort of Riesling that you would be thrilled with any night of the week. The remaining wines are their Estate Riesling, sourced from all across their vineyard holdings, and a Weissburgunder, a textured, more supple wine with orchard fruit and that classic Emrich-Schönleber backbone of acidity. At just this one estate, there is a bottle for every occasion and price point. 
 
-Hanna Krilov Cohen

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