A Rising Star in 2005: Bruno Clavelier
7/20/2007 -
Bruno Clavelier might not be the first person you think of when someone utters the magical name Vosne Romanee. Robert Arnoux, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, Grivot, Engel, Meo-Camuzet, Hudelot-Noellat are just some that come to a typical Burgundy lover's mind. What about Bruno Clavelier? Well they should start thinking of him as he is making some of the most traditional, succulent Burgundies around. They are incredibly transparent wines that accurately represent their respective terroirs to a tee. Bruno specializes in Vosne Romanee but also has holdings in Chambolle, Nuits St. Georges and Gevrey. Apparently, from most people I have talked to Bruno in 2005 hit a grand slam home run in the bottom of the ninth with the world series on the line. In other words a can't miss.
Bruno has been working in biodynamie for the past couple of vintages and has the utmost respect of his peers including Aubert de Villaine (DRC) and the Seysses (Dujac). Arguably his Chambolle 1er Cru "Combe d'Orveau" is considered his best wine despite the facts he makes much more Vosne Romanee.
Bruno took over his families domaine in 1987 and quietly started to propel this estate up the quality hierarchy. The parcels Bruno has are nothing short of sensational and every year this estate gets better and better.
The Vosne Romanee "Haut Mazieres" is a lieu dit right under the famous 1er Cru "Les Suchots." The Haut Mazieres from chez Clavelier produces a wine with beautiful precise aromatics along with a rich structured palate with a slight gamey, rustic touch.
The Vosne Romanee "Combe Bruleé" has vines as old as 65 years. The soils are calcite and because of the unique southerly exposition of the vineyards there are very warm days followed by cooler nights than normal so there is well maintained acidity in the wines. Another interesting thing about this vineyard is that it never yields wines with great color to the frustration of Bruno himself. He even tried cropping the wine lower than normal but it still yielded wines of light color. It appears to be a function of the soil but do not fret as there is still great flavor authority despite the limpid color.
The Vosne Romanee 1er Cru "Aux Brulées" comes from an average vine age of fifty years with its neighbors being Richebourg and Les Beaux-Monts. Not too shabby. This is a feminine style of wine with great depth, and purity but still with tremendous backbone.
The Vosne Romanee 1er Cru "Les Beaux-Monts" is one of the largest Vosne Romanee 1er Cru's. It is bordered by Aux Brulées and also brushes up against the lower part of Echezeaux. Unique in personality due to the high clay content of the soil the wine is has great aromatics on a masculine and very sturdy frame.
The Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru "Combe d'Orveau," which is somewhat of a cult wine among Burgundy people, is brilliant in 2005. It was even brilliant in the somewhat maligned 2004 vintage. This overlooks the vineyards of Echezeaux and is below the lower part of Musigny. So a very very choice location. Many people consider this to be the star of the portfolio.
These wines are being sold on a pre-sell basis and they will arrive in the Fall. There is a 10% mixed case discount.
Vosne Romanee Haut Mazieres - $89.99
Vosne Romanee Combe Brulée - $89.99
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux-Monts - $120.99
Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Aux Brulées - $151.99
Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Combe d'Orveau - $151.99