2010s From Domaine Pierre Gonon - Saint-Joseph "Les Oliviers" Blanc and Vin de Pays "Les Iles Feray!"

11/19/11 -

(Pierre Gonon with Samson)

Our tastings of the 2010s in the Northern Rhône last winter were very exciting, with some comparisons made to the great 1991 vintage. Tasting with the friendly and thoughtful Jean Gonon is always a high-point of our trip and Jean seemed particularly happy with the vintage. There were rainy periods in May, said Jean, which fortunately did not bring rot, and again in June. The summer was relatively cool with north winds, and the fall weather was ideal, allowing a harvest between September 20th - 30th with low yields and ripe, thick skinned grapes with good acidity. Briefly, as most of you are familiar with the quality of their work, the Gonons are organic in the vineyard, with a lot of work by hand or horse on the steep slopes, and they have massale-selection old-vines, including 1.2 hectares from Trollat. In the cellar they are old-fashioned in the best sense - wild yeasts, fermentation in open wood vats, and no new oak or over-extraction. The Saint-Joseph Blanc is from a two hectare plot 600 feet up on the Coteaux des Oliviers - a great site for whites, being quite similar to Les Roucoules, just across the river. Having tasted 1991, 1999, 2001, and 2004, all of which were showing fabulously, I can assure you that this is a vintage to cellar and a fabulous value. Also just arrived is the Gonon's lovely Vin de Pays de L'Ardeche "Les Iles Feray." Roughly 120 cases are produced each year, half of which happily comes to Chambers Street. We loved the softer and fatter 2009, but the 2010 has more acidity with better balance and length and will drink beautifully over the next few years. Don't delay as this will disappear quickly! (A small quantity remains of the superb 2009 Saint-Joseph rouge, which will drink well for perhaps another 6 months, but then should be cellared for 5 years or so - it will be a great mature wine for enjoyment between 2015 and 2025.)