Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
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Featured Articles
Drinking Old Wine Many of our favorite wines have been old bottles. While the great majority of wines are made to be consumed within a couple of years of their production, the relatively few wines that are intended to age can offer absolutely magical tasting experiences.
We are pleased to offer older wines for
The Not-So-Simple Jacquère of Savoie: Domaine des Côtes Rousses and Blard & Fils It is so easy to put your nose into Jacquère from a recently opened bottle, or take a sip three seconds after you pull it from the fridge, and assume that the wine will be pleasant, but rather neutral for the entirety of its life. Lean and bracing, but not particularly complex. This isn't
2019-Freshness and Filigree from Florian Lauer 2019 is shaping up to be an extraordinary vintage in Germany, from both a quality and scarcity standpoint. The wines we've been fortunate enough to taste combine exquisite fruit, frank minerality and an airy, lifted character to the aromatics—what lovers of Riesling want. And Florian Lauer has deliv
Thierry Valette's Clos Puy Arnaud: Two Bottles, Two Soils in Castillon Clos Puy Arnaud is located near the town of Belvès-de-Castillon, which is perched along a large plateau of limestone - a geological formation similar to the neighboring long stretch of elevated limestone belonging to the St.-Emilion AOC. Thierry Valette purchased the estate in 1999 after
Spring and New Arrivals from Champagne After a long, dark, and anxious winter, spring is finally here! The days are longer, the tariffs have been suspended, and the air is sweet (though it's certainly hard to tell from behind our masks). And with spring we are finally seeing the arrival of a passel of new wines. And of the new arrivals,
The quietly assured Thomas Perseval presenting his beautiful Champagnes in Reims.
Champagne Thomas Perseval
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One of the joys of working with grower Champagnes is the process of discovery. Whereas the big houses can make very good wines (though more often than not, farming leaves a lot to be desired), even at their best they can be a bit predictable. Over the past few years watching a new generation of Champenois take over their families' vines has been inspiring. The wines seem more alive and energetic as the young vignerons improve the farming, converting to organics and biodynamics, and also adjust their winemaking to highlight terroir.
A view of the Perseval estate from Thomas-Perseval.fr
One young grower whom we've grown to love is the soft-spoken, humble, and talented Thomas Perseval. He farms 2.5 hectares of vines in Chamery on the northwestern edge of the Montagne de Reims. Per Selection Massale the soils are clay, sand, and “Calcaire limoneux.” The farming is certified organic with light tilling and grass is planted between the vines, the initial fermentations are with native yeasts, the wines undergo natural malolactic fermentation and are bottled with lower dosage than those of those of his parents’ domaine, Perseval Harteel. Perseval’s wines shine brightly, displaying that magical combination of energy, purity, and precision that makes one bolt upright from one’s chair. The entire range is highly recommended. John McIlwain
100% Pinot Noir from sandy loam soils with grass between the vines. Fermented with native yeasts in enamel tanks.The 2014 Hazat has a yellow-golden robe with a frothy, soft mousse and fine bead. Pretty aromas of golden apple skin, Bosc pear, white flowers, and a whiff of acacia honey feature on the nose. The rich palate is ripe, but coiled with a firm mineral spine with stone and orchard fruit flavors radiating from within. The mid-palate is expansive with just a touch of autolyse character with notes of orange oil and hazelnut giving way to a persistent, mouthwatering finish. This is delicious, though it has far more to give as the elements knit. I’d cellar for 3-5 years by which time the fruit and substantial structure will have integrated. This is fabulous Champagne and offers oodles of potential. Disgorged August, 2019. Highly recommended. John McIlwain
80% Pinot Noir, 20% Chardonnay. From organically farmed vines planted in 1974 in sandy clay and limestone-clay soils. This rosé de macération spent 12 hours on the skins before fermentaion and aging in 228 litre barrels. Disgorged by hand and bottled without dosage.
La Pucelle is comprised of 90% Pinot Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir from the bottom of the slope in the eponymous lieu-dit. The vines date from 1961 and are planted in sandy, deep silt soils, which are farmed organically and lightly tilled twice a year, with grass allowed to grow between the vines. The vins clairs are fermented and aged in wood, undergo malolactic fermentation and are bottled unfiltered and unfined.
La Pucelle is comprised of 90% Pinot Meunier and 10% Pinot Noir from the bottom of the slope in the eponymous lieu-dit. The vines date from 1961 and are planted in sandy, deep silt soils, which are farmed organically and lightly tilled twice a year, with grass allowed to grow between the vines. The vins clairs are fermented and aged in wood, undergo malolactic fermentation and are bottled unfiltered and unfined.
Le Village is 100% Chardonnay planted in 1986, located mid-slope in clay-limestone soils. Farmed organically, with light tilling in the Spring and mowing on the the cover crops in the summer. The vin clair is fermented with native yeasts in barrel with 10 months on the lees and bottled with low sulfur. Disgorged 02/2020.Thomas Perseval is one of my favorite of the new generation of Champenois. Soft-spoken and humble, he recognizes the way to the most interesting Champagne is thru conscientious farming. In a bit of shallow comparison on my part, the wines are nuanced and subtle, but quietly confident like the grower. 2015 is a difficult vintage and and a number of the wines can display a hard edge and asperity—cranky in layman’s terms—but Perseval’s are perhaps more accurately described as just a touch backwards. On opening Le Village is a bit sullen, showing more herbaceous that fruity, though that disappears with a quick decant. The nose offers pretty aromas of apple blossom, white peach fuzz, and a bit of lemon pith. The palate is coiled and initially inscrutable with stone and stone and green tea notes dominating, but with air things become more textured and focused. Sure, there are subtle notes orchard fruit, apple skin and Meyer lemon oil, but there’s also a lovely pure ripeness that carries from attack to finish that lends charm and grace to the otherwise deeply mineral proceedings. There’s nascent complexity already on display (after the decant) and the first glass effortlessly begets a second pour. This makes for a nervy aperitif, but showed better still with a snow day cabbage and farro soup. And while quite lovely now, I suspect 3-5 years of post disgorgement aging will allow the elements to knit and for this to be a special bottle. John McIlwain
Le Village is 100% Chardonnay planted in 1986, located mid-slope in clay-limestone soils. Farmed organically, with light tilling in the Spring and mowing on the the cover crops in the summer. The vin clair is fermented with native yeasts in barrel with 10 months on the lees and bottled with low sulfur. Disgorged 02/2020.Thomas Perseval is one of my favorite of the new generation of Champenois. Soft-spoken and humble, he recognizes the way to the most interesting Champagne is thru conscientious farming. In a bit of shallow comparison on my part, the wines are nuanced and subtle, but quietly confident like the grower. 2015 is a difficult vintage and and a number of the wines can display a hard edge and asperity—cranky in layman’s terms—but Perseval’s are perhaps more accurately described as just a touch backwards. On opening Le Village is a bit sullen, showing more herbaceous that fruity, though that disappears with a quick decant. The nose offers pretty aromas of apple blossom, white peach fuzz, and a bit of lemon pith. The palate is coiled and initially inscrutable with stone and stone and green tea notes dominating, but with air things become more textured and focused. Sure, there are subtle notes orchard fruit, apple skin and Meyer lemon oil, but there’s also a lovely pure ripeness that carries from attack to finish that lends charm and grace to the otherwise deeply mineral proceedings. There’s nascent complexity already on display (after the decant) and the first glass effortlessly begets a second pour. This makes for a nervy aperitif, but showed better still with a snow day cabbage and farro soup. And while quite lovely now, I suspect 3-5 years of post disgorgement aging will allow the elements to knit and for this to be a special bottle. John McIlwain
From organically grown fruit in the premier cru village in C hamery in northwestern Montagne de Reims, the Perseval Tradition Extra Brut is comprised of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Pinot Meunier, and 20% Chardonnay from the 2014 vintage. Raised 70% in enamel, and 30% in barrel and disgorged in September of 2020. The nose offers aromas of white flowers, tangerine peel, pear skin, candied ginger, and sea spray. The palate has a punchy mineral attack followed by layered flavors of lady apple, cool crushed herbs, and chalk and displays considerable drive, power, and depth on the persistent salty, dry, savory, lingering finish. I'd love this with a plate of crudo or better still grilled hamachi collar. John McIlwain
33% Pinot Noir from La Masure, 33% Pinot Meunier from La Pucelle 33% Chardonnay from Le Village lieux-dits. Certified organic farming. Fermented with indigenous years in barrel. Hand disgorged and bottled without dosage. The 2014 Grand Cuvée has a pale peach robe, with a soft, frothy mousse and fine bead. The nose offers aromas of red fruits, peach skin, and a wisp of brioche. The palate is ripe, rich, creamy and dry with firm stony core, enrobed by red fruit and orange oil flavors giving way to a long, rising, palate clinging finish. This is already displaying plenty of brio and complexity, but based on the 2012, this should reveal more character and elegance with another couple of years of post-disgorgement again. A lovely bottle and reminder that Thomas Perseval is a grower to watch. John McIlwain
