Laval, Georges 2020 Champagne Cumieres 1er Cru Les Chenes

If ever there were an argument that portions of Cumières merit Grand Cru status, Laval's Les Chênes makes a convincing case. The amphitheater-shaped vineyard is something of a sun trap and produces Champagnes of power and precision in Vincent's able hands. Made up of 100% organically-farmed Chardonnay from the eponymous lieu-dit on the eastern side of the village (near the bottom of the slope down by the river), where the soils are chalky rather than the clays of other portions of the village. This is a particularly powerful blanc de blancs. Don't hesitate to age for 10 or more years, as tastings with Vincent have shown that Les Chênes is a particularly long-lived wine and a magnificent expression of singular terroir.  -JCM