HIEDLER - STRAIGHT OUTTA KAMPTAL!
1/4/2025
[Ludwig Hiedler III pouring me their Family Reserve from mag with it's traditional label...]
[Vineyards high up above the town of Lagenloios proper (coutesy instagram)]
Being fortunate enough to visit this Kamptal family estate last May, Hiedler wowed me with their combination of traditional principals & techniques with modern marketing (as Ludwig's tee shirt illustrates so brilliantly, a play on words with NWA's song Straight Outta Compton) whilst eschewing modern wine trends or dogma. As he puts it so eloquently: "the age-old term "Naturwein (natural wine)" should be considered beyond the current context, as it now carries a certain controversy and is often associated solely with alternative and unconventional styles. Today, much like centuries ago, there exists a classic, traditional style that is also the result of a nature-centered, artisanal approach and yields authentic, terroir-driven, and clear wines". Mike Drop!
But first, a little family history: Formed in 1856, and a favorite of the Archduchy of Austria, Hiedler has always cultivated vineyards in the best sites in the Kamptal, mostly all premier cru. Not surprisingly as founding member of the ÖTW (Association of Austria’s Traditional Wine Estates), they have been been one of the motors of Austria’s vineyard classification since 1992. The mainly terraced vineyards cover around 30 hectares of vineyards in the Gaisberg, Hasel, Heiligenstein, Kittmannsberg, Kogelberg, Schenkenbichel, Spiegel, Steinhaus and Thal vineyards. They are 90% planted with white wine varieties, mainly Gruner and Riesling. The soils are extremely stony and steep in some areas, perfect for the latter, and covered with extremely deep loess in other, perfect for Gruner. As modern traditionalists, their farming is certified SUSTAINABLE following organic principals and practices, hand harvested, spontaneously fermented with zero chemicals in the field and cellar.
[Ludwig Sr with sons Dietmar (left) and Ludwig Jr (right) at their winery (courtesy instagram)]
Several years back, Ludwig Sr stepped back from the Hiedler triumvirate and it is now steered in the very capable hands of his sons Ludwig Jr and Dietmar. Outside the winery at the entrance stand two statues of an owl carved out of stone pillars; although it would be cute to say they embody the two brothers, it is the family's logo seen on the label and are meant to symbolize the relationship between "knowledge, experience, culture and nature, united in wine". This ethos is a melody that rings through all their wines, embracing the old with the new, the past with the future, producing wines of incredible depth and textured layers.
We are thrilled to offer their village level Gruner from their oldest vineyard Thal and two 1er crus, a Gruner and Riesling from old clones on the highest sites. A truly spectacular triumvirate worth trying! -Giselle Hamburg
