Biodynamic Wine & Art in Chianti: Fattoria le Masse's Timeo Canaiolo and Chianti Classico
5/10/22 -
Fattoria le Masse is located in the village of Barberino Val d’Elsa in Chianti. You might be visiting to walk the biodynamically tended vineyards and taste the wine. Or you maybe because you've signed up for a yoga class. Or you could be a lucky painter, selected as one of this year's resident artists at the estate (a project that began in June of 2021). Le Masse, if you couldn't tell, is a special spot tucked into the slopes of Tuscany.
Their website explains the mission: "The experience and the intent that we currently have, focuses on a dialogue with nature and listening to a unique place that we have discovered we have and want to preserve over time. Le Masse has become a place of research, a place of confrontation and meeting, respecting the present and valuing the future." Sounds right up Chambers' alley!
Robin Mugnaini is the third-generation owner of the estate. It was his grandfather who bought the land, his father who preserved the "peasant traditions" of the farm, and he who introduced biodynamic agriculture techniques in 2018.
"Some of the most important operational tools used in biodynamics are the agricultural rotations: the alternation of different annual crops, including green manures, which allow the soil to be nourished and increase its biodiversity," the website says. There are also preperations like medicinal herbs and cow manure (stuffed into horns and buried) that are used in the vineyards. All organic waste (like clippings, manure, and yeast) from the farm left to sit at least a year before being used to enhance to health of the soil. And ultimately, their schedule is left to the sky: "The lunar and planetary calendar for sowing and cultivation operations is a compass that allows the farmer to orientate himself on the moments of implementation of the various practices." Grapes are harvested manually. There are no pumps in the cellars. Fermentation happens naturally.
Robin's mother, Christiane, is a painter raised in Berlin. She brought her artistic spirit to the estate when she married Alberto, Robin's dad. She designs all the labels. Alberto and Christiane's daughter, Lea, manages the residencies that bring artists to the estate.
The balance and harmony that Fattoria le Masse keeps at home is definitely reflected in the two wines we're offering today. Well-priced and delicious, we've got a feeling you'll find a place for these bottles on your own family table. - David Hatzopoulos
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Less inspiring or fascinating than David's presentation of the philosophy and values of Fattoria le Masse, I just have my sensory experience of drinking these wines and eating Italian food. With very few exceptions, I always approach my Italian wine consumption with food in mind. Though consumed on separate occasions, both of these reds were fully satisfying for me and together represent the perfect pairing to a proper Italian meal. The 'Timeo,' my new favorite Canaiolo (ok ok I didn't have a favorite before, but I do love this one!), is super pretty, with fresh acidity and bright red fruit. I had this light to medium red with grilled artichoke and pesto, seafood tagliatelle (it played nicely with the briney character of the capers), and on a separate occasion, braised lentils and duck sausage (a variation on braised lentils with cotechino, a classic New Years dish in Italy). The Timeo was perfect with all of these dishes, and is a clear winner for Antipasti and Primi dishes. When I tried the Timeo with meatballs and red sauce, it didn't quite hold up, as the combination of acidities and lack of fullness with the red led the wine to seem a bit faint. Luckily we have the perfect fix for this situation: the Chianti Classico! Now here was a perfect pairing, still providing ample acidity to facilitate more eating and drinking, but also giving generous black cherry notes, and riper mid-palate, with more present tannins and more material overall. Any piece of meat, from a simply prepared steak to an Ossobuco, would pair well with this classic Sangiovese. Le Masse's Chianti has also scored remarkably well with the Tomato-based sauces demographic. Of course this begs the question "what to have with dessert," but I am trying to lay off the sweets, so you can use your imagination for the final courses! - Eben Lillie
