Zero Sulfur Summer: Wines Made With No Added Sulfites
More and more we are hearing interest from our community in "natural wines" and wines without the addition of sulfur. Though the term "natural wine" is still largely up for debate, generally it is accepted that the wine should have very low to no amounts of added SO2. Sulfur dioxide is a naturally occurring by-product of fermention, thus a wine with no added sulfur-dioxide can still contain 10 mg/l or even more of naturally produced SO2 , though more is often added during the winemaking process and/or at bottling to act as a preservative against unwelcome bacteria and premature-oxidation. Conventional winemaking involves large, and often unhealthy, doses of sulfur in order to create uniform and indestructible wines that can withstand the rigors of long travel times and temperature fluctuations. The argument against making wines without sulfur is that they can sometimes be a bit volatile, and if made improperly, or without thoroughly clean cellars and vessels, can result in wines with off-putting aromas or flavors. Without the security of sulfur, winemakers are at the whim of the season.
On the other hand, this changeability is exactly what many of us covet about a "no sulfur" wine. In the right hands, and under the right conditions, these wines can exude a vibrancy and energy that wines whacked with sulfur may never have. Though small doses of this preservative can often have no, or nearly imperceptible, effect on the flavor, a large dose can seriously deaden the flavors (not to mention the health effects, but we're not doctors so I'll let you do your own research on that). It can also allow the wines to evolve in remarkable ways that you might not see in more "stable" wines.
The 'Sin Azufre' from Chacra in Patagonia is an excellent example of everything that can go right with a no sulfur wine. This bottling began as an experiment. After working tirelessly in the vineyards since their inception to avoid the use of chemicals, the winemaker wondered what might happen if they refrained from adding anything in the cellar; instead relying on their nose and sense of taste to guide them. Their mission was to "capture the energy" and terroir of the vineyard and somehow this wine does just that.
We have also just received our tiny allocation of Ruth Lewandowski wines, all made without any sulfur additions. In previous vintages some bottlings saw a small dose added, but with each year, as Evan's techniques evolve and improve he sees less need for it, trusting the work he has done in the cellar, and the work of his growers in the vineyard.
In the warm land of Puglia, where mass-production reigns, there is a man named Natalino del Prete, and we have long coveted his wines, none of which see added sulfur. His vineyards are an oasis in a land of dead soil. The hearty, complex Negroamaro 'Anne' is the perfect example of how solidly structured, how complex in flavor and aroma, a wine can be when farmed well and brought up with care.
And while some producers are creating specific bottlings without sulfur additions, or have developed their whole lines to be SO2-free over time, there are examples of families and wineries that have never added it in their production. The Bulli family is deeply rooted in the Colli Piancentini region of Emilia-Romagna and have made wines without it for five generations. Humble in origin and very proud of the health of their vineyards and the style of their traditional methods, they believe the strength and stability of their wines come from the soil.
From Spain we would like to highlight beautiful new zero-sulfur wines from two of our favorite winemakers: Oriol Artigas and Goyo Garcia Viadero. Both have been stalwart in their adherence to a zero sulfur approach for the past few years, and their wines show all of the upsides of the approach. Goyo Garcia Viadero's Malvasia is a fascinating and elegant expression of skin-contact white wine. Oriol Artigas' El Rall, a blend of red grapes (mostly Merlot, Syrah, and Garnatxa) from old vineyards around Barcelona, is a great medium-bodied red that shows pretty herbal and salty coastal character. Beyond these new wines from the most recent 2019 vintage, we also have a small number of (lovely) wines from 2018 from these producers.
The Keropatis, from Siflogo in Lefkada, Greece is also exciting and different: a very light red wine made from a very dark black grape by very brief maceration on the skins. Vinified without sulfur or other additions, it's the perfect style of delicate, easy drinking, but complex red wine for drinking with a bit of a chill during the summer.
Today we are thrilled to showcase a few of our favorite zero sulfur wines from all over the world!
-Michelle DeWyngaert
