Selosse Champagne

1/8/2007 -

“Champagne’s cult-grower number one”, says Richard Juhlin, in his remarkable book “4000 Champagnes”. Selosse’s cult status has been exacerbated in the US by the near total absence of his wines – it seems that no importer can persuade him to sign-up (the wines were formerly imported by Robert Kacher, but it’s been a couple of years now).

As so often happens, cult status means not cheap - but, as Juhlin also points out, “Despite this fame, his wines cost nothing compared with Petrus, Romanée Conti, or Krug Clos de Mesnil” (or even when compared to Krug Grande Cuvèe nowadays…). The Selosse wines are indeed very special – a unique, Burgundian take on Champagne: 100% Chardonnay, barrique fermentation and aging (with about 10% new barrels), and battonage, but no malolactic (there is also a Rosé, for sale below, and an occasional Blanc de Noirs). Approximately 40,000 bottles are produced every year – aside from the inherent quality of the wines, when you compare this number to Egly-Ouriet’s 70,000, or Pierre Peters' 150,000, the cult situation is even easier to understand.

I’ve been dying to try Selosse again – I bought a mixed case at a Christie’s auction about 10 years ago that included some 1988 and 1990: mind-blowing wines. So I continue to look for some, but this is the first time that the prices have seemed realistic. I’m not going to get to buy any of these: we have just 6 bottles of each of three cuvèes to offer – first come, first served.

Brut Initial (formerly called “Tradition”)

Brut Substance (formerly called “Origine”) – a ‘Solera’-type blend of vintages going back to 1987

Selosse Rose – a “rose de saignee