'Pur' Energy: The Wines of Daniel & Jonas Brand
12/5/18 -
At the northernmost reaches of the Pfalz (Germany's second largest winemaking region), the vineyards look akin to the vineyards of their neighbor to the north, the Rheinhessen, with long stretches of rolling hillside terrain. The soils here range from limestone to sand and gravel to loam and loess, and the hills give the opportunity for various cooler microclimates to be found.
In the tiny town of Bockenheim, big things are happening. Brothers Daniel and Jonas Brand officially took over their family's vineyards in 2014, with plans to not only go organic, but to venture out into their own style without losing sight of their region and roots. One major impetus to go organic in the vineyards came from Daniel's interest in his own health; if one eats organic food, why wouldn't one drink organic wines? Jonas was on board. This notion was developed and refined as they went to school to study winemaking, and staged all over the world, including with Lise & Bertrand Jousset, longtime friends of Chambers Street. Their family was keen to support this decision as long as the proof was in the vineyards; basically, they wanted to make sure that with this change the vineyards would flourish—and flourish they did! Speaking to Jonas this past June, he was happy to report that other vintners in the area have taken inspiration from the family's success and organic methods are on the rise around Bockenheim. Their 18 hectares of vineyards are slowly growing, as the brothers continue to set their sights on older, more auspicious parcels. Walking through their vineyards in the summer, bees and butterflies lazily flit through the thigh-high wild flowers and grasses, and you can feel the health of the ecosystem already. We spoke about biodynamics and Jonas was quick to opine that they are very interested, but have to work with patience and in tandem with their vineyards, so they are working with biodynamic treatments when needed, but don't think it's essential to convert right away. In the few years I've been able to visit, I've been impressed with the maturity and intuition the brothers show with their decision making. They have a clear sense of how they want to move forward with their influence both in the vineyard and the cellar.
As years have passed, the brothers have turned a dedicated focus to pét-nats and their 'Pur' series of wines: naturally-fermented, unfined, unfiltered wines with no added sulfur. We've been lucky to get to taste the wines at their winery, and feel privileged to have followed the collection for a few years now, watching the encouraging evolution of these young winemakers. We've been slowly accruing most of the current collection (and have sold out of a few along the way), from sparkling to red, and hope you find something to discover and delight in. The pét-nats now only exist in Magnum, but don't worry, it's best to have enough to share these beatific sparklers! Not to be overlooked are the red wines: the decision to use grapes not often found on their own is laudable. Grapes previously used to color and support a blend now stand on their own merit. Dornfelder, Portugieser, Cabernet Mitos: all grapes that through the brothers' lens, deserve this undivided attention. The Wilder Satz is a sophisticated, skin-contact blend of five white grapes, that has just the right amount of texture and balance. Wildrosé continues to fascinate with its evolution into an inspired winter rosé to pair with roasted game, ramen, gratins. Sylvaner 'Elis' is a true treat, sourced from 78-year-old vines: elegant and a must for Sylvaner fans (you know who you are). We raise a glass to Daniel & Jonas Brand, and look forward to many more 'Pur' wines from the Northern Pfalz! Prost! Cari Bernard
