I Had to Tell You - The Vibrant 2016 White Burgundies

11/30/18 -

Now I've certainly gone on at length about my love for the truly transcendant 2016 red Burgundies, but I'd be remiss were I not to recommend the brilliant whites from the vintage. In what could be considered one of the most difficult growing seasons in memory in Burgundy (devastating frost, followed by two months of rain and mildew pressure), has arisen what may be one of the finest vintages we've tasted. And while the memory of the huge crop losses from the catastrophic frost of April 27 and subsequent Herculean efforts in the vines throughout May and June to stave off some of the worst attacks of mildew many vignerons had ever encountered, the weather broke and Burgundy saw perfect growing conditions from July through September. And though yields were down dramatically, the fruit that remained was in excellent condition.

As for the the whites, they offer a cool-toned energy and transparency with floral aromatics, white fruits and nearly kinetic acidity to the finish. 2016 is a vintage where the low yields offer great intensity without weight, (a trick Burgundy performs brilliantly). At the moment most are fairly tightly wound, though they have plenty coiled within and should flesh out with a bit of time in the cellar. These are immensely satisfying, terroir-driven wines and deserve a place at your table and in your cellar. Happy hunting! John McIlwain