Organic Outer-Borough Burgundy

9/17/14 -

(Photo of Maranges courtesy of Domaine des Rouges Queues)

I will readily admit to an abiding love for Burgundy. The appellations roll off the tongue: Chambolle-Musigny, Vosne-Romanée, Volnay, Pommard… I’ll also confess to having great affection for less name-brand Burgundies. While not exactly household names, the less famous villages of the Côte d’Or and Côte Chalonnaise furnish some immensely satisfying and affordable knife-and-fork wines. The interplay between fruit and earth and the cool-toned, sweet but savory character of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay enhance food rather than dominate it. Lively acid and energetic minerality invigorate the palate. As new releases from 2012 arrive, we are delighted by the vintage’s charm and structured character. Below are recent additions to our Burgundy section from two exciting organic domains.

Founded in 1997 by former wine vendors Isabelle and Alain Hasard in the Côtes du Couchois, Domaine Champs de l’Abbaye initially gained notoriety for producing over-performing wines from that admittedly obscure appellation. They have subsequently moved from the Côtes du Couchois to the better known Côte Chalonnaise, where they farm 6 hectares. As of 2010 they also produce a Monthélie in the Côte d’Or. By keeping yields low and farming conscientiously, the Hasards fashion Burgundies which consistently punch above their weight. All the vineyards are farmed organically with some biodynamic methods. The grapes are hand-harvested, 100% destemmed, and pressed in a vertical press. Fermentation is with indigenous yeasts without additives, there is pumping over of the cap with a minimum of punching down to avoid over-extraction. Finesse is a priority over power. Aging is in 25% new oak; the wines are bottled unfiltered and unfined, with a minimum addition of sulfur. The wines are stylish without being overworked. There is a beautiful ripe fruit balanced by good acidity and supple tannins.

At the southernmost end of the Côte d'Or is the relatively new (1989) appellation of Maranges, composed of the villages Cheilly, Dezize, and Sampigny. Formerly considered a source of structured blending wine for punching up Côtes-du-Beaune Villages wines, Maranges now produces some affordable Burgundy of great character. Located in the town of Sampigny-lès-Maranges, Isabelle and Jean-Yves Vantey’s Domaine des Rouges Queues produces lovely wines which start with old vines and great farming. The Vanteys have worked the vines without chemicals since 1998 and made the transition to biodynamics from 2008. The vines date from 1960 and 1973 in the premier cru La Fussière and average 60 years old in the village Maranges. Their cellar work is non-interventionist; the fermentation is spontaneous in stainless and open-top wooden fermenters. The aging is in neutral oak and sulfur is used sparingly. The wines display succulent fruit, great freshness, and have detailed minerality. These are sturdy, honest, satisfying wines which should age nicely.   –John McIlwain