Pinon, Francois & Julien 2018 Vouvray Goutte d'Or

"Goutte d'or 2018, Raisins séchés par le vent et le soleil" The grapes were harvested in one pass on October 26th in the "L'Arpent" parcel of 55 year-old vines on clay over lower turonian limestone, facing south-west, with yields of 15 hl/ha. "We have been able to make this cuvee only three tines in our history," says Julien, "in 1989, 1990 and 2018. It requires extreme weather conditions which make it exceptional." The fermentation lasted from the end of October to the beginning of January, with only wild yeasts "which participate in the expression of terroir." Two hundred 750 ml bottles were produced, there will be another release in 500 ml. (123 grams per liter residual sugar, 11.8% alcohol.) Tasted with Julien during the dinner in his honor at Chambers, the wine showed remarkable freshness and purity despite the sweetness, with gorgeous fruit and an intense mineral core. Delicious now but it will cellar forever. Highly recommended. -David Lillie