Wittman Gruner Silvaner: A Chambers Street Wines Exclusive

2/5/2008 -

In Germany last summer I had a lovely visit at the Wittman Estate in Rheinhessen and tasted many wines. I wanted to buy all of them but Jamie and David might not have been too happy with that, so I decided on the 2006 Gruner-Silvaner as it was absolutely delicious (there is very little high-quality Silvaner in the market, although there should be more. Well, that's what I'm here for). Do not be confused: the traditional name for Silvaner in the Rheinhessen is Gruner-Silvaner, or "green Silvaner", for the sometimes hue of light green in the wines.

Germany is the greatest place in the world for the Silvaner grape, producing wines that are crisp, mineral, and refreshing with a lovely texture that can be rich if that is the intention of the winemaker. The palate tends to be earthy and the acidity is naturally high. These are not your average daily summer-sippers (yes I know it is winter) as they have great complexity, and in some cases serious weight, without losing their laser-like focus and minerality.

Franconia in Southern Germany is the heart of world-class Silvaner, but in Rheinhessen there are some damn fine ones made, specifically at the estates of Keller and Wittman. The 2006 from Wittman is delightful wine. The nose is redolent of fresh greens, mineral, lemon and lime zest with a very lively palate of concentrated green/herbal fruits with chunky minerality and lovely persistence. Very zesty finish, with lots of grapefruit, acid and mineral. Just a lovely wine and much more than the typical one-dimensional Silvaner you typically see out of the Rheinhessen.

There is a limited amount of this wine; first-come, first-serve.