The Spanish Invasion (Home Edition)
3/29/17 -
Last week we were pleased to host a series of tastings with some of Spain's finest natural winemakers. Alfredo Maestro and Goyo Garcia Viadero displayed continued mastery of zero-sulphur winemaking in the Ribera del Duero. We have admired their energetic, supple, and age-worthy wines over many years now, yet they seem to get better and better. In addition to the Duero's dominant Tinto Fino grape, Maestro and Viadero reveal unknown shades of the region through lesser known varieties like Albillo, Garnacha Tintorera, and Graciano. Several of these wines are available today.
Catalan grape varieties and winemaking talent were on vivid display. The wines of Oriol Artigas from Alella (a coastal DO north of Barcelona) were revelations, composed of unique local varieties Pansa Blanca, Pansa Rosada, and Pansa Negra that seem to pack more exotic fruit, herbs, and savory mineral flavor into each consecutive, ethereal sip. Manel Avinyó of Clos Lentiscus delighted us with sparkling and still wines from his family's old vineyards of a rugged Catalan variety called Sumoll, which requires extended elevage to be tamed into long-lived, floral, feral reds and (in Manel's hands) glorious Petillant Naturel and Champagne Method sparklers. (This is a rare chance to taste Sumoll three ways!)
Xurxo Alba of Bodegas Albamar presented a veritable arpeggio of Albariños that highlight the varied terroirs on the extreme coast of Rías Baixas (Galicia), as well as his ability to draw out their subtle expressions through limiting yields and experimenting in the cellar. Xurxo's red wine, a blend of Mencia, Caiño, and Espadeiro, is a palate-rattling rarity from this white wine region and a must-try for lovers of complex, acidic reds.
Daniel Ramos showed his superb Garnachas from the mighty Gredos Mountains, west of Madrid. The Gredos are home to the finest Grenache wines and vines in the world, and Daniel Ramos is responsible for some of their highest expressions. We acquired some particularly reasonably priced bottles of his 2007 Pizarra and 2011 Chorrancos, which are evolving beautifully with lots of life ahead. These wines are fascinating, highly recommended, and will not remain in stock for long.
We do not take for granted the hard work and commitment of these growers who devote themselves to organic farming, preservation of local grapes, historic vineyards, and winemaking traditions, and winemaking without additives (other than minimal sulphur - for some, as noted, there is no added sulphur at all). The large and enthusiastic turnout to engage with these exceptional people and their wines validates their pursuit and is deeply appreciated.
-Ariana Rolich
