The Fabulous Wines of Fabrice Gass at Champagne Alexandre Filaine

While there are a multitude of fascinating growers in Champagne (and quite a few characters), one of our absolute favorites is the singular Fabrice Gass from the tiny house Alexandre Filaine in Damery. Thoughtful and without pretense, Fabrice makes memorable wines in the manner Champagne was produced 100 years ago. Farming is organic, though not certified, fermentation is with native yeasts in very old barrels from Bollinger, where he was employed for years. Further, the age of the barrels and the low pH of the must prevents malolactic fermentation, lending cut and drive to the wines. And continuing with the one-man band theme, the bottles are hand-riddled and manually disgorged. A visit to Fabrice’s tiny domaine is to see meticulously farmed parcels and well considered vinification. And while the winemaking is as traditional as it comes, the wines are inspiring in their concentration, depth, and poise, with ripe red fruits, creamy texture, and a profound stoniness at their core.  

-John McIlwain