The Canary Speaks - Monje
8/24/10 -
Say it slowly - Tac-o-ron-te A-con-te-jo (pronounced tay-ho). Significant because??? Monje is making the wine of my moment. In a sea of potential obsessions (call me lost in the EtnaJuraSacraAosta quadrangle, otherwise known as the pursuit of the newest fermented crystalline deliciousness), this is it. This is a wine that you want to keep going back to over and over again, excavating new flavors, bright glimmers of light pitched against the dank and dark New York City back drop. Yes, this wine is as thought provoking and complex as it is delicious, a wine that enchants as it brings its obscure place of origin, Tacoronte-Acontejo, to life.
A little back story: Tacoronte Acontejo is on the northwest part of the island Tenerife, which has a profoundly Atlantic influence. It is the oldest and quite possibly the most dynamic of the Canary Islands D.O.'s, of which there are a great many. Soils are volcanic; native grapes are the focus. Tongue twisting grape varieties such as Tintilla, Vijariego, Listan Blanco, Negramoll, and others can be found here. Beloved by the Brits, the great oenological achievement of the region, historically, was sweet Canary Sack made from the Malvasia grape. These days, there are a fair number of producers here peddling their wines to a thirsty tourist population. The aim is imminent drinkability. Until now, few if any of these unique wines were exported. Amongst the recent strew of Canary Islands wines being imported, Monje may be the most important because it's such a long standing bodega. Established in 1956, the family has been making wine here since 1750. They ferment with native yeasts and age their wines in all used American oak barrels. Pictures of the inner workings of the bodega are striking and Lopez de Heredia-esqe. When you drink these wines you can not help but think of the place they come from. I served this to a friend. His first response was that he would drink this with Lobster Paella. Paella, of course, is not a food of the Canaries, but the food is, as you would guess, quite seafood-centric with African, Spanish, and new world influences. Their sauces are called Mojos and are reminiscent of the pureed salsas you see in Mexico. Some are spicy; some are not. This wine would compliment nearly any exotically spiced cuisine. You will only find Monje at Chambers Street Wines. -Chris Barnes
