Shining Stars in Anjou Noir: Delrieu-Ducleux, La Grange aux Belles, Les Vignes du Fresche
8/23/2024
If you've had wines from Marc Angeli (Ferme de la Sansonniere), Stephane Bernaudeau or Richard Leroy, you might be familiar with the magical combination of Chenin Blanc grown on the schist soils of Anjou Noir. Named for the dark black or blue schist that populates the western part of Anjou, the region was more known for sweet wines up until the past 30 years or so when trailblazers like these three began to craft electrifying dry Chenins that were racy and mineral but with intense depth. While these wines have become increasingly hard to find and less of a bargain than they once were, there are a number of producers following in their footsteps making great wines from this unique area that display all the verve while still being accessible and affordable to the average drinker. The schist seems to produce wines of great density, in part due to its low fertility resulting in lower yields of more concentrated grapes, as well as its propensity for holding heat which helps to fully ripen grapes. For a more in-depth look at the region and some of its key players, our good friend Pascaline Lepeltier wrote a very informative article HERE that really drives home how great Chenin grown on schist can be, and hints at the bright future ahead for many of these growers.
Like many, I was unaware of the wines of Julien Delrieu before we at Chambers Street brought them in on a recommendation from Pascaline a few years ago. I noticed a particular subset of our customers, whose tastes I respect and hold in high regard, had really taken a liking to his Le Jeau Chenin Blanc and soon enough we had sold through the small amount we received. Needless to say I was excited to see the arrival of a new vintage of these wines, which were somehow still mostly unknown yet becoming increasingly sought-after. Julien had studied under Vincent Carême in Vouvray and is close to Stephane Bernaudeau, so the pedigree is there, however some early turbulence and several changes in name and direction at the winery may have delayed a wider appreciation of his wines.
The story goes back to when Julien and college friends Thibaut Ducleux and Jean-Marie Brousset banded together to form Les Roches Sèches (originally called Les Pierres Sèches before changing the name one year in), purchasing vineyards in 2010 in Faveraye-Mâchelles. Amid some struggles the trio split up in 2017 and Julien took control of 3.5 hectares of vines, focusing on making natural wines from these various plots of Chenin Blanc, Grolleau, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Fast-forward to 2022 and Julien has welcomed his old pal Thibaut Ducleux back into the equation, in his words "to increase precision in the day-to-day work and hopefully take the domaine to new heights!" They are working out of a barn where all the wines undergo native yeast fermentation and aging in a combination of fiberglass, stainless steel and used oak. Sulfur is used sparingly if at all. The wines are brimming with energy, depth and tension, true wines of terroir that will leave you proclaiming "holy schist!" - Jeff DiLorenzo
La Grange Aux Belles was created by Marc Houtin in 2004 - a classic story of a new career, first looking for vineyards in the Languedoc then finding 9 hectares in Anjou, inspired by Leon Barral in the south and Patrick Baudoin in the Loire. The estate has Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pineau d'Aunis, Gamay, Grolleau and Chenin Blanc, farmed organically of course, using herbal infusions against mildew and vinified with minimal SO2. Short maceratons are practised here, with minimal extraction, seeking light-bodied aromatic wines, low in tannins and alcohol. This comes as a welcome alternative to the tannic, high-acid reds that have been common in Anjou. The whites here too are light and mineral, very pure and un-tainted by new oak. The wines from Grange Aux Belles are simply delicious - they sell out immediately in France, and are in short supply in NY - we urge you to try them!
Some of our readers may remember the wines from Domaine du Fresche, which we used to stock at Chambers Street Wines several years ago. The estate is in La Pommeraye (Anjou) and was run by Alain Bore and his wife Christine. The sixth generation to work the land, Alain was a humble farmer and winemaker, who took over from his parents in 1989 and converted the estate to organic farming beginning in 2000. Suffering from health problems starting in the late 2010s, Alain sadly passed away some years ago and his sons had no interest to move home to Anjou to tend vineyards and make wine. Marc from Grange Aux Belles knew Alain well and knew how special the nearly 30 hectares of organically vineyards were, so he went through the process, with a colleague from England, to purchase the estate from Christine Bore and continue in the spirit of the late Alain Bore. To some degree, the winemaking is more "Grange Aux Belles" leaning, with shorter macerations, playing with carbonic maceration and millefueille fermentations. The fruit is the same fantastic quality. The wines of the newly renamed "Vignes du Fresche" are truly delicious and we are so happy to see the evolution and know that Alain's life project has been carried on with respect and honor by Marc and friends! -Eben Lillie
We've put together a collection of whites and reds from these three estates, all highlighting the expressions from the schist based terroirs in Anjou. We have one Sparkling Chenin, and several whites from Chenin Blanc (and one blend of Chenin and Chardonnay) that are all ready to drink now or hold for 3-5 years. For reds we offer an assortment, made from Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Gamay, that range from light and elegant to more medium bodied and structured. All of today's selections clearly transmit the beauty and unique profile of wines from the Anjou Noir sub-region and are ideal for immediate enjoyment!
