Semi-Mature Mosel Riesling for Under $20? - Yup!!
7/15/2008 -
(Stefan Steinmetz)
This year one of the major changes at Chambers Street Wines is that we have started working with the fabulous portfolio of Mosel Wine Merchant. These producers make some of the most natural wine in Germany and have been a welcome addition to the German selection. I am sure you are all familiar with Clemens Busch, Knebel and Steinmetz. Well last August I was in Germany and had a fantastic tasting at Steinmetz's estate and fell in love with one wine. It was the 1994 Mulheimer Sonnenlay Spatlese which was just such a lovely expression of old school Mosel. 1994 was a vintage that was considered one of the greatest vintages of the 90's and Stefan was not making the wine at this time. His father Gunther, now retired, made this wine and what a job he did. This has scintillating acidity, lovely green apple, pear and spice notes, along with slate and humid salty notes and a finish that does not quit. This is an exceptionally bright wine on the palate which means high-toned fruits and amazing acids. Bottled sunshine as they say in the Mosel.
As an aside, wines from Mulhemier Sonnenlay used to be poured on flights of the Zeppelin during the twenties and thirties and it was a proud boast that many growers who had plots of land in Muhlheimer Sonnenlay would make. From this Mulheim gained its reputation as Zeppelonwein.
The wine was made using natural yeasts, which was rare those days in Germany, so it is extra expressive now that it's in middle age. I have managed to acquire a parcel of this brilliant wine for a price you will not believe. $19.99! a bottle. That is net pricing. But almost 15 year old Mosel Spatlese from a great producer - this is a steal! Should really charge higher but this is the perfect summer wine and will age effortlessly for at least twenty more years due to its wonderful level of acidity. Wild yeast all the way so the aromas were a bit rough young but now are singing. Lovely wine and there are only fifteen cases on pre-arrival so act quickly.
