Pierre Luneau-Papin's Stunning 2004 L d'Or!

4/5/2007 -

We consider ourselves pretty well versed on Muscadet down here at Chambers Street Wines. With David Lillie being the all-knowing God of Muscadet and Lyle Fass being his very willing disciple, there is some controversy as to actually how good the 2004 Luneau-Papin L d'Or is. Lyle thinks the 2004 L d'Or is the greatest thing since sliced bread. He has tasted almost every vintage of L d'Or and his previous benchmark was the 2002 but after enjoying the 2004 over a three day period, he firmly declared that the 2004 is the best vintage of that wine ever. Now I am known for hyperbole and David is definetly not known for hyperbole so the praise for this wine lies somewhat in between. One thing that cannot be denied is that 2004 Luneau Papin l'Dor is a profound and age worthy example of Muscadet. David Lillie thinks one day it will eclipse the 1982 but not for many years. I have tasted the '82 and I love it but I think the 2004 has more going on. Then again I never tasted the '82 young.

2004 was about as classic a vintage as you can get for Loire whites and for Muscadet in particular. The wines are racy, mineral-infused and have a serious backbone for aging. Classic Muscadet. Pierre Luneau's wines in 2004 are absolute showstoppers from the Clos de Allees all the way up the L d'Or. The vines here are very old averaging around 40 years with some getting as old as 65. The soils are typical for the area comprising of micaschist, gneiss and volcanic rocks. Take a little of this wine in your mouth and we will be damned if you don't taste micaschist, gneiss and some volcanic rocks. The wine also has wonderful floral undertones and some bright citrus fruit. After two days this wine evolves into something really compelling, The texture takes on something akin to icing on a cake...but an icing made of minerals, concentrated tiny citrus fruits and some quince. Just spectacular stuff. The wine has it all. Elegance, finesse, concentration and jaw-dropping purity and the ability to age and improve for twenty years. All this sounds like it should be really expensive. Nope.....remember this is Muscadet we are talking abou

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