Mencia in the Wild: Single Parcel Wines from Casa Aurora
7/14/16 -
In the village of Albares de la Ribera, high in the mountains of the Bierzo Alto in Northwestern Spain, winegrower Germán Blanco (familiar to Chambers Street regulars through his very popular Quinta Milú wines) recuperates and farms old-vine piezas (small family vineyards) planted by his great-grandmother and her neighbors. Feral and fragrant, planted on oak- and chestnut-covered slopes rising as high as 1000 meters above the valley of the beautiful Boeza River, festooned with wild flowers and mountain herbs, these vineyards are the source for some of the most energetic and memorable Mencia-based wines in Spain.
When Germán Blanco describes his great-grandmother, Aurora Garcia (affectionately referred to as "La Señora Aurora" on his labels), and La Galapana vineyard, which she planted to Mencia in a chestnut grove on a 980 meter mountain top, his delight and inspiration are infectious. He is mesmerized by the promise of this place and fueled by the legacy of Señora Aurora, perpetuated through his own unique vision and wines. The first female in the area to work in the coal mines, following the early death of her husband, Aurora raised her daughter's children, planted La Galapana all by herself, and vinified her grapes at the priest's house, which was essentially the town's communal wine press; at the age of 100, she enrolled in classes to learn how to read and write, with the goal of writing letters to her adoring protege, Germán. Casa Aurora's logo is a donkey, in tribute to Aurora's favorite pet and constant companion around town, following the death of her husband.
The vineyards of Aurora's village are located just 50 meters outside of the official Bierzo D.O. limit, planted on iron-rich red clay soils with decomposed granite sands and gold-flecked granite rocks. Germán notes that Albares is the easternmost village in the mountains where wine grapes are able to reach full maturity. Since founding Casa Aurora 5 years ago, he has recuperated 12 piezas (and counting) for a grand total of 2.5 hectares. He farms La Galapana as Aurora would, using sulfur and cola de caballo (horsetail plant). He also works closely with the growers and vineyard owners of Albares (and is diligent about listing their names on his labels), many of whom have begun to offer Germán their vines as they grow too old to farm. He converts the vineyards to organic viticulture, simultaneously elevating the quality of farming in the region and saving its precious old-vine piezas from going fallow. This is an important contribution to the village, which is starting to be recognized. When flowers begin to thrive in a vineyard, he vinifies it as a single parcel. "From little things, big things grow," Germán says. "If I blend these special things into each other, you can't taste it. And you may not like it... But it's special!"
In the wines and old vines of Albares, Mencia is never alone: Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha, and local white grapes Palomino (referred to as "Jerez" in this region), Doña Blanca, and Godello constitute a significant percentage of Casa Aurora (a minimum of 25% white grapes and 25% Garnacha Tintorera are standard). Vineyard altitudes in this part of the Bierzo Alto are extreme: 800-1000 meters, compared to the approximately 400-700 meter range in the more famous vineyard areas of Bierzo Bajo to the west. The resulting wines transmit each vineyard's unique ensemble of varieties in a beautiful and unusual way. They are texturally complex and shape-shifting, sometimes appearing dense, deep and silky, and on other days more sheer, taut and lifted. Natural acidity levels are high, a revelation next to many Mencia-based wines from Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra, which are frequently acidified. This unfettered freshness is enhanced by moderate alcohol levels, generally between 12.5 and 13 degrees.
Germán makes all of his wines naturally and simply, as Aurora would have done: foot-trodden, nothing destemmed, fermented in amphora and/or open top barrel, then aged for one year in 4-8 year-old french barrels of varying size (depending on the parcel). A pinch of sulfur is added at bottling.
Today we are pleased to offer three of Germán's four vinos de parcela: the aforementioned La Galapana, which has the highest Mencia content at 90% as well as the lowest yields (we received just 8 bottles of this wine); Valle del Rio, a dark, savory, and exotic expression dominated by Garnacha Tintorera and Palomino; La Vendañona rounds out the offer - the most generous and floral blend in this lineup, with 60% Mencia plus Garnacha Tintorera, Garnacha, Palomino, Doña Blanca, and Godello from 100+ year-old vines. At recent tastings of these wines with our customers, many reacted with awe: "I have never tasted anything like this..." It is gratifying to know that wines this special are perceived as such. The great Señora Aurora would be very proud! Ariana Rolich
