Majestic Mountain Wines: Garnachas de Gredos (and some Albillo too).
2/19/15 -
(Los Chorrancos Vineyard, El Tiemblo (photo courtesy of Daniel Ramos).)
To the best of our knowledge, Garnacha originated in northeastern Spain's Aragon region, which was the center of the powerful maritime confederacy known as the Crown of Aragon. From the 12th to 17th centuries, the Crown extended from Spain to absorb the Mediterranean states of Mallorca, Sardinia, and Sicily (among others), as well as parts of southern France. It appears that Garnacha went along for the ride, going on to assume important roles in the viticultural traditions of Crown territories such as Sardinia (where Garnacha is called Cannonau) and the Languedoc-Roussilon region of France, where Garnacha is known as Grenache. Grenache went on to achieve greatness in France, particularly in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The pure varietal Grenache wines of Château Rayas (for one) stand out for their complexity, elegance and ageability, characteristics largely attributed to Rayas’ unique plantings of head-trained, old vine Grenache in fine, sandy soils.
Quite a way southwest of Aragon, an hour's drive outside of Madrid, another fascinating range of head-trained, old vine Garnacha planted on sandy soils, as well as schist and slate, has inspired a consortium of winemakers to unite under the moniker "Garnachas de Gredos." Their aim is to preserve and elevate the profile of these magnificent vines, some of which are well over 100 years old. Spanning the central Spanish appellations of Vinos de Madrid, Castilla y León, and Méntrida, the Sierra de Gredos mountain range contains varied soils, exposures, and microclimates that combine with extreme altitudes to produce powerful Garnachas that express terroir with unusual clarity when vinified with care. At their best, the wines are majestic: voluminous yet poised, with thundering tannins, intense acidity, heady aromas, and a complex mixture of florals, spice, garrigue, minerality, and earth. The wines express their origins, while exhibiting precision and balance within Garnacha's inherent breadth.
We are thrilled to offer Daniel Ramos' revelatory Zerberos Garnachas from El Tiemblo and Cebreros in Ávila (80km or so west of Madrid), which expose new sides of the grape as well as a distinctive winemaking perspective. The Garnachas de Gredos alliance also specializes in Albillo Real, the great white grape of the region. Bodegas Marañones in San Martín de Valdeiglesias (Vinos de Madrid) makes exotic Albillos and bold, herbal Garnachas that are affordable luxuries, while Berabeleva's ever-popular Camino del Navaherreros offers more transparent and delicious Garnacha flavors under $20 than any other Spanish wine we know. Please see item descriptions below for details on winemaking and terroir. Cheers! Ariana Rolich